On Location: “The real India,” on two wheels – Cycling the coast of Kerala with Exodus

“Wait, wait, wait…” said our tour leader Safi, extending his arm like a parking lot barrier, holding us back from a stampede of incoming traffic.

Navigating India’s roads – including the simple act of crossing a street – can feel chaotic on the calmest of days. Cars, trucks, vans, buses, scooters, tuk-tuks swerve, overtaking one another like road roaders in a race, as if lanes and speed limits were merely suggestions.

It’s a cacophony of gurgling engines, melodic horns, and high-pitched beeeeeeeps!

Safi’s job, as we paused at the edge of a busy, palm-tree peppered road in Kochi, a densely-populated city in the sun-kissed state of Kerala on India's southwestern Malabar Coast, was to keep us from getting mowed down.

“Waaait,” Safi warned again, scanning for a brief break in traffic. “OK, go!”

Our cue to move.

In traditional circumstances, this might be the moment when tourists shuffle across a street in herds, one foot after the other, trailing a guide waving a lollipop-shaped sign.

But this wasn’t that kind of tour. On this Kerala crawl, we traded footsteps for spinning wheels, loose cotton for stretchy spandex, and hats for helmets.

This was India, on a bike – where a single-file line of riders, even on the busiest roads, has a place in the organized chaos.

Kerala is calling

Our eight-day tour, “Cycle the Coast of Kerala,” powered by legs (and daily doses of electrolytes), was led by Exodus Adventure Travels, a U.K.-based company, specializing in small-group trekking, cycling, wildlife, and cultural tours, that also runs an office in Toronto, ON.

The FAM from March 21-29, which PAX was invited to cover exclusively, united 11 travel advisors from Canada and the U.K. with Ontario-based Krista Rothfuchs, a bold-faced name in the Canadian travel industry, who joined Exodus as a business development manager in 2024.

“Adventure tourism is booming and India has so much to offer,” said Rothfuchs, unpacking the program. “It has so many different regions and I think this one, [Kerala], is among the least touched.”

That said, the tropical destination – a magical stretch of golden beaches, rugged headlands, and a serene network of lush lagoons and canals known as the backwaters – is rising in popularity among adventure seekers, Rothfuchs said.

“It’s the kind of place where you don’t know what to expect going in…and then it blows your expectations out of the water," she said. 

Are you crazy?

But cycling? Through India?

A common reaction, when mentioning this trip to friends and colleagues before departing, was, “Are you crazy?'"

India conjures up a specific mood board: majestic temples, bustling markets, colourful spices, women draped in bright saris, sizzling street food.

Roads that pulse and grind to the max, scooters and motorcycles, weaving fearlessly in between larger vehicles. Sometimes alongside wandering animals.

I’ve been to Delhi, in the north, where it’s not unusual to see cows calmly plopped in the middle of busy highways, where thick traffic flows like water. Traffic lights exist, but eye contact, hand gestures and intuition are the real rules of the roads.

India, as a full-sensory experience for culture lovers? Certainly. But as a setting for a cycling? It’s not as convincing. At least at first glance.

But this was Kerala, which might as well be a world away from India’s north.

In northern India, home to the popular “Golden Triangle” (Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur), landscapes shift from intense cities to nearby deserts and mountain peaks, life moves at a relentless pace and cuisine is hearty, (think wheat-based staples, like roti), and society is shaped by Hindu, Muslim, and Sikh customs.

Whereas Kerala, in the south, is the verdant retreat. A canopy of swaying palm trees, edged by laid-back coastal towns and villages. The rhythm? Gentler. The roads? Somewhat quieter (and cleaner).

South Indian cuisine leans heavily into aromatic dishes. Coconut, curry, mangos. Seafood galore, like juicy red snapper, smothered in spices, cooked in a giant banana leaf.

In humid Kerala, a coconut tree grows in every backyard. The state – bordering the Arabian Sea, northwest of Sri Lanka, and among India’s most literate – is a fascinating blend of Hindu, Muslim and Christian traditions.

And viewed from two wheels? You couldn’t ask for a better route. The roads are (mostly) flat and well-paved.

You’d be crazy not to cycle through Kerala.

Our fit and friendly tour leader Safi – a Kerala native, educated in Tourism Administration and English Literature, and born to ride (he’s a state champion cyclist) – made a strong case.

“You can go from A to B on a highway,” he said. “But when you’re cycling, you pass through villages where buses can’t go. You get real cultural experiences, with real people. You see the real India.”

Exodus’ cycling trips in India range from eight to fourteen days and are paced for a balanced experience.

The days feature a morning ride, leaving afternoons for walking tours and relaxation time. 

Our itinerary? A Level 2 (Easy and Moderate) southbound ride from Kochi – a multi-cultural port city, known as the “Queen of the Arabian Sea,” and epicentre of the global spice trade for centuries – to Varkala, known for its sweeping beaches and dramatic red cliffs. With a one-day river cruise in between (we’ll get to that).

Our route: nearly 200 kilometres, with rides ranging from 16 to 54 kilometres.

Exodus provides sleek Proformance ACL-02 bikes equipped with hydraulic brakes and 27 gears (e-bikes are also available for an additional cost); travellers bring their own helmets, which are mandatory.

Saddle up, pedal out 

After nearly 30 hours of air travel from Toronto, inclusive of connections and layovers, Kochi, where teak/bamboo Chinese fishing nets line the shores, was the perfect place to acclimate.

At Cochin International Airport, also known as Kochi airport – the two names are used interchangeably – our greeter, Chandan, welcomed us with sweet-smelling leis made of marigold and jasmine flowers.

And before pedalling off, we had a full day to relax and savour chicken masala by the pool at the Casino Hotel by CGH Earth.

Despite its name, it’s not a casino, but a secluded, old-world retreat, on leafy Willingdon Island, far removed from the hustle and bustle of Kochi city. It was local as local gets (in fact, 92 per cent of all Exodus tours use locally-owned accommodations).

We also enjoyed a pre-ride city crawl though Kochi’s Broadway Market, a high-energy retail hub, offering everything from spices, textiles, and electronics to clothing, jewelry, and toys.

During this time, we met Safi and his support team (another Exodus guide, Shibu, and minibus driver, Shavi, who followed the ride), to test our bikes and learn the rules of the road.

Safi had a knack for balancing fun with focus, offering pro tips for cycling safely in India: buses and tuk-tuks take priority, use your bells, ride as a team, watch for potholes.

With helmets full of mental notes, we squeezed into our padded cycling shorts and set off, single file, spending the first “official” day cycling through Kochi city. Safi in the front, Shibu “sweeping” in the back.

It’s an urban ride, on the left side of the road.

We glide past temples and locals playing cricket. We visit historical landmarks, like Saint Francis Church, one of the oldest European churches in India, and Dhobi Khana in Fort Kochi, an 18th-century public laundry, established around 1720 by the Dutch, that, today, still provides traditional hand-wash and ironing services.

We visit Jew Town, filled with antique shops, and the Paradesi Synagogue, built in 1568, today adorned with hand-painted tiles from China and Belgian chandeliers.

We even hopped aboard local ferry at one point, bikes in tow, to take in Kochi from a whole new perspective.

And we navigated city traffic. Spray-painted buses, roaring scooters, and beeping auto-rickshaws streak past – in some cases, barely missing us.

You can’t help but feel nervous, riding a bike here, but that quickly gives way to the feeling that you, too, belong on the road.

“Drivers take chances on the road,” Safi explained, “but that doesn't mean they’re out to hurt anyone. They’re actually very accommodating.”

With 17 years of leading cycling trips for Exodus – 152 tours, to be exact, amounting to some 3,000 days on the saddle – and as one who grew up in Kerala, Safi spoke from experience.

What amazed us was how friendly locals were along our route. At stoplights, drivers would honk, smile and wave, sometimes rolling down their windows to ask where we were from.  

Excited children cheered wildly at us from school buses, as if a legit cycling race was in motion (for the record, cycling with Exodus is not a race. Everyone goes at their pace, often spreading out).

At one busy intersection, a community group gathered around us, asking to take photos together.

At times, it more like a local celebration than a cycling trip, which gave our confidence on the road a real boost.

But it would be misleading to label this “tour de India” as a traffic-choked ride. Most of the journey unfolded in relatively peaceful settings: laneways, alleyways, backroads, village trails, pathways, and countryside and coastal stretches.

Departing Kochi, the urban landscape gave way to fishing villages and pastoral fields, where cows were occasionally spotted.

Was it hot? You bet it was. Temperatures in hot and sticky Kerala, at this time of year, can hit the 30 to 35 degrees mark. There's a natural breeze when cycling, but get ready to sweat! 

Fortunately, hydration was never an issue. Every 10–15 kilometres, Safi would pause the ride, with our accompanying minibus, so his support team, armed with jugs of cold water, could top-up our water bottles. Or repair bikes, if needed. 

We stopped regularly at local cafés for a cup of chai tai or a freshly-blended pineapple juice and pastries. Sometimes, on the roadside, Safi and his team would set up a small table to slice fresh mango or pineapple for us to enjoy.

Hydration and snacks, as we pedalled along, practically became an art form. No one, at any point, was running on empty under Exodus’ watch.

The Venice of the East

Each day revealed a fresh slice of India.

We cycled into Muhamma, a town in Kerala’s Alleppey region, known as the "Venice of the East" for its intricate network of canals, rivers, lakes, and lagoons.

Our hotel for the night, The World Backwaters, could have rivalled a luxurious Caribbean resort: manicured gardens dotted with spacious suites, and a tranquil pool that overlooked the pristine waters of Vembanad Lake.

But dinner, here, won our hearts.

Safi, ahead of time, had reached out to a local family to see if they might host our group for supper.

They graciously agreed, and soon we were walking through a dense forest to the rooftop of their home, where Mom, Dad, their children, and extended relatives welcomed us with open arms, serving up a traditional “sadya” – a vibrant spread of vegetarian dishes, rice, and dessert, served on a banana leaf.

This meal, we learned, is typically enjoyed during harvest festivals or Hindu weddings.

What began as an experiment (Safi confessed he’d never organized something like this before) blossomed into an evening overflowing with generosity and quintessential Indian hospitality.

We crashed a wedding

Cycling through biodiverse Alleppey took us to places beyond the brochure. Along the way, we met local artisans crafting floor mats and rope from coconut husk, fisherman sorting wild mussels.

In the coastal region of Karunagappally, parallel to the Arabian Sea, we cycled directly through a temple festival, where a procession of robed locals, carrying coconuts and incense sticks, paraded down the road, followed by an elephant adorned in rich, embroidered saddlecloths.

Safi, enthusiastically, used every opportunity to show us his homeland. In the village of Pazhaveedu, we crashed a traditional Indian wedding.

Stopping our ride in front of a local venue, Safi insisted we join the celebration and say hello to the bride and groom. We were very much not on the guest list. And very much underdressed. But hey, when opportunity knocks.

Inside, it was a full house. Hundreds of guests. Friends, family, Indian music, colourful saris. We might’ve been strangers, but we weren’t treated that way. Attendees approached us, smiling ear to ear, asking where we were from. Like we belonged all along.

Then, we were invited on a stage with the bride and groom, overjoyed by our presence, for a group photo. Helmets, spandex, jazz hands and all.

The best travel moments are the unscripted ones, but this one, at the wedding, revealed something deeper about India itself.

“Unity and diversity,” Safi would later tell me, summing up the country’s way of life. “All over India, people are generally very welcoming.”

Bollywood blitz

Other moments drew us closer to Alleppey's communities,

One night, we stayed at a riverside, family-run homestay, Gabby World Community Homestay, next to a rice field.

After a blazing sunset (viewed from a motorboat), and savouring homemade curry, fresh tuna, mango pickle, and cabbage, our evening turned into a full-on karaoke party.

The ladies donned saris and we danced together, transforming the living room into a celebration of Bollywood beats.

The homestay was basic and simple, but meaningful.

“This trip is for travellers who don't mind compromising a little bit of luxury for a local experience,” Safi later explained.

Homestays, inclusive of local services, also ensure tourism dollars stay within communities. “We make sure locals are involved so the money goes straight to them,” Safi said.

Rollin’ on the river

Each day brought new surprises, like when Safi suggested we take a local train, instead of our minibus, to complete the final stretch to Varkala, a coastal town known for its dramatic red cliffs and seaside restaurants.

But nothing delighted us more than the relaxing river cruise that Exodus weaves into the middle of the tour, where we hung up our helmets and spent a day gliding along the tranquil Pampa River on fully-staffed houseboats, enjoying meals, and overnight stay, on board.

It was pure bliss, hopping off our bikes, breaking up into even smaller groups, sinking into open-air sofas, feeling the breeze in our messy helmet hair, watching the world drift by.

Ingredients for a well-earned nap.

Less scrolling, more soul

What was it about cycling through Kerala that resonated so deeply?

Was it the sense of accomplishment of covering 200 kilometres on a bike? The rush of endorphins from our daily rides? The unfiltered access to Kerala’s vibrant communities? 

Likely a mix of all three.

But there was more to it. Something subtler, beyond distance and adrenaline: it was the way cycling forced us to be present.

When steering a bike, your phone is packed away. Notifications vanish. Every turn commands your attention. You have no choice but to focus on what's ahead. 

The sight of locals, gathering at a roadside tea stall to debate politics; the sound of rhythmic Carnatic music, rising and falling in intricate vocal patterns, pouring through crackling public speakers in the early morning; the faint smell of sea salt.  

On two wheels, you connect with destinations in ways that cars, buses and screens can’t. This was travel at its purest.

After cycling the coast of Kerala, I was ready to take on the world.

Take me anywhere. Just make sure there’s a bike.

Exodus in India – need to knows

• Exodus caps its tours at 16 travellers (though the average size is typically 10-12).
• All breakfasts and some lunches and dinners are included. You can eat cheaply in India. Budget at least 1,650 rupees (approximately CAD$25) per day for meals.  

• Exodus has four accommodation levels – Simple, Classic, Superior and Premium – as well as an ultra-luxe Signature Collection. Our tour was Classic, with hotels generally rated three to three-and-a-half stars (though some felt closer to four).

• “Easy & Moderate” tours are for cyclists of varying abilities who are reasonably fit. Rides lasted from three to five hours and there were no major hills (with exception to our final day in Varkala!) For more on difficulty levels, click here.

• Restaurants in India are vetted to ensure they maintain high standards of food safety (no one on our tour got sick). And not all Indian cuisine is spicy. There are plenty of mild options to enjoy.
• Every time a traveller books with Exodus, a portion goes toward supporting local community projects.

 What did Canadian travel advisors have to say about cycling the coast of Kerala with Exodus Adventure Travels? Stay tuned for PAX’s follow-up from India! 

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