On Location: Cathedral secrets, stallions & “stouties” – PAX spends 48 hours with Royal Irish Tours

Landing in Ireland for the first time feels like opening a long-awaited book—familiar, intriguing, and full of surprises.

I’d heard that the first thing you notice is Ireland’s landscapes of lush green fields —and it’s true. As my non-stop Aer Lingus flight from Toronto descended into Dublin at sunrise, a patchwork of vivid green rolled out below like a living quilt.

Ireland’s nickname, the “Emerald Isle,” makes perfect sense from above. Thanks to steady rain, rich soil, and a mild climate, this island nation off the coast of England and Wales grows some hardworking grass.

Flying in aboard Ireland’s national carrier—complete with shamrock-branded livery, green-teal seats, and a friendly Irish crew—sets the tone for an authentically Irish welcome. Or, perhaps, it’s just one of “a hundred thousand welcomes” – a local phrase that reflects Ireland’s warmth and hospitality.

Outside Dublin Airport, the air carries a faint trace of rain—and, just maybe, a hint of earthy Guinness, Ireland’s smooth stout beer and most famous export.

There’s a sense that this country has stories to tell, or at least some good “craic”—that uniquely Irish blend of fun, entertainment, and good company.

Enter Royal Irish Tours

Ireland’s true character sharpens into focus as we meet our first local: Brendan, a chauffeur from Royal Irish Tours (RIT), the Canadian tour operator hosting our visit, in collaboration with Tourism Ireland, in late May.  

With deep Celtic roots, RIT (also known as RIT Vacations), a family-run business, specializes in tours across Ireland, Scotland, England and Wales, crafting expert-led itineraries tailored to Canadians (who make up 99 per cent of guests).

Their offerings range from coach tours (maximum 38 guests, covering one and two-week holidays) to small-group premium sightseeing (maximum 18 guests, with off-road experiences), flexible driving holidays (choose your own adventure), rail tours, and city stays.

But for this trip, we’re experiencing RIT’s “Chauffeur Drive”—a premium option that blends the freedom of a road trip with the ease of a private driver, who doubles as a local guide.

And so, enter Brendan – smartly dressed in a crisp shirt, tie, and sleek sunglasses. He greets me just past customs and escorts me to a Mercedes V-Class—our luxurious chariot for the next 48 hours.  

Effortlessly navigating the left-side roads, Brendan—part of a trusted circle of top-tier drivers—shares local insights with the warmth of a family member or close friend. His melodic Irish accent and cheerful banter helps soften the edges of my jet lag.

As we drive toward downtown Dublin, he looks out at the clear blue sky. “It’s never like this!” he exclaims. Despite Ireland’s rainy reputation, the sun is out, shining brightly.

The luck of the Irish was with us.

Craic & culture in Dublin

RIT’s tours begin and end in Dublin, Ireland’s capital —and with good reason.

Set on Ireland’s eastern coast, at the mouth of the River Liffey, Dublin offers convenient access to the airport and an ideal gateway to Irish culture.

We start the morning with an early check-in at the five-star (and recently renovated) Fitzwilliam Hotel, located directly across from St. Stephen’s Green – a popular park filled with paths, flowers and ponds with swans – and steps from Grafton Street, a famous shopping district.

In the Fitzwilliam’s chic and stylish lobby, I meet Andrew Nolan, RIT’s knowledgeable chauffeur reservations manager, and a Dublin local, ready to guide me through a day of Royal Irish-style sightseeing.

Walkable downtown Dublin, with just under 600,000 residents, has a way of wrapping you into its grip with cobblestoned swagger – it’s a city that knows it has a good taste in music, literature, and beer, but doesn’t need to prove it.

You might find yourself admiring a stately row of candy-coloured Georgian doors (a contrast to the city’s otherwise muted, gritty character) one minute, and then tapping your foot to live music, or taking in a spontaneous tale, in a lively pub the next.

Dublin is home to more than 770 pubs, by the way, each serving as a social, cultural, and community hub. Ya like whisky and beer? Have a seat.

The city is also one of Europe’s oldest, with roots stretching back more than 1,000 years. Originally a Viking settlement in the ninth century, Dublin later became a key stronghold in medieval and British rule.

Dublin has been at the heart of Ireland’s political, literary, and cultural evolution. In a way, it feels like an old jacket—worn, a little frayed, but effortlessly stylish. 

It’s also rich with historical sights, from Trinity College and the Book of Kells – home to Ireland’s oldest university, and a highly-revered ninth-century manuscript – to Dublin Castle, constructed in the early thirteenth century.

Andrew leads me through town, pointing out vibrant neighbourhoods, like Drury Street, a pedestrianized strip of trendy boutiques and cafes, and Temple Bar, a touristy area near the river where a famous pub of the same name is found.

He takes me to his favourite hangouts—Brew Lab, for velvety flat whites and lattes, and Two Pups Café for perfectly poached eggs. We exchange thoughts on current events, travel, and city life. It’s only been a couple of hours, and already I feel like a local.

Andrew steers me in the right directions, recommending the best places to eat (Drury Buildings, for rich josper grilled picanha steak) and places to be mindful of (like touristy Temple Bar, where the beer costs double).

Think of this as a Royal Irish tour – led by a loyal Irish friend. Local knowledge, after all, is in RIT’s DNA. Every experience is captained by guides who live in, and truly understand, the regions they showcase.

“We experience these things ourselves,” Andrew tells me. “If we like it, we sell it.”

The Guinness “Stoutie”

Of course, the temptation to play tourist lingers (hey, it’s my first time in Ireland).

So, we visit one of Dublin’s top attractions: The Guinness Storehouse, a museum in the Liberties neighbourhood at St. James's Gate that celebrates Ireland’s famous dark stout.

Inside, the experience feels like a mall—seven floors, built around a glass atrium, shaped like a pint glass. It’s next level. Interactive exhibits trace the history and brewing process of Guinness, dating back to 1759. One floor is devoted to the brand’s famously cheeky advertising campaigns. Another has a tasting room.

It all culminates at a rooftop bar with a full Guinness pint and sweeping views of Dublin.

But the highlight? Having my face laser-printed into the creamy head of a fresh Guinness pint.

Dubbed the “Stoutie” (a play on “selfie”), this clever experience uses a special “beer printer” to create personalized pints for visitors.

Was it worth it? Let’s just say a headshot never tasted so good.

The Guinness Storehouse can be included in any of RIT’s self-drive/city stay packages. RIT secures preferred rates, but on its own, the museum starts at about $40 per person (plus eight Euros for the Stoutie experience).

And with RIT, there’s freedom to explore at your own pace. All city-stay packages include a Hop-On Hop-Off bus ticket, typically a 48-hour pass. Alternatively, this can be added as an open voucher to suit your client’s schedule.

Secrets at St. Patrick’s Cathedral

The Guinness Storehouse is a must-see, must-do, but some real magic happens off the beaten path – at Dublin’s St. Patrick’s Cathedral.

Renowned for its striking Gothic architecture and history dating back to 450 AD, this structure is one of Dublin’s most treasured landmarks.

While it welcomes hundreds of thousands of tourists each year – usually groups of up to 30, on the cathedral’s ground floor – Royal Irish Tours can unlock a more exclusive visit. 

Cue the “Verger Experience,” which takes small groups – limited to no more than six people – on a behind-the-scenes tour of the cathedral.

For this, we meet our kind and gentle guide, Louis Parminter, cathedral manager and dean’s verger (who assists the clergy) early in the morning.

As we walk the main floor, he breaks down the cathedral’s rich history, harmonious architecture, an impressive organ of more than 4,000 pipes, and the "Door of Reconciliation,” which is associated with a story of conflict-resolution, and the origin of the Irish phrase "to chance your arm.”

But the intrigue amplifies as we wander into areas off-limits to the public—cave-like stairwells, hidden chambers, and rooms echoing with the weight of centuries-old secrets.

As we move through these tight spaces, Louis unravels stories that are carved into the cathedral’s stone walls and stained-glass windows.

The journey reaches its peak far above the church’s nave, overlooking the crowds. We climb a narrow spiral staircase to a secluded, attic-like chamber—the ringing room and bell tower.

Here, I take hold of a rope and, with a firm pull, get a chance to ring the cathedral’s bells myself. “Wake up, Dublin!” I holler. We then step outside, onto the cathedral’s roof, for sweeping views.

This exclusive tour is offered just twice daily and comes at a premium ($100 per person, or about 500 Euros per group).

What’s more? The “Verger Experience” is available only through select operators like RIT.

It’s just one example of how the company, after 25 years in business, has made all the right connections. “We have great relationships all over Ireland,” says Andrew.

It also highlights RIT’s range of expertise, extending beyond classic coach tours, and into the realm of customized FIT planning and luxury.

A horse, of course

The next day, Brendan, our trusted chauffeur, returns for a delightful coastal drive to Dublin’s outskirts, to Dún Laoghaire Harbour and affluent Killiney, pointing out sights along the way, like Manderley Castle (Enya’s house!)

It’s an unhurried way to cruise along the Irish Sea, with Brendan stopping at prime photo-taking spots. Not having to keep up with a large group is a real luxury.

“With our chauffeur tours, multi-gen is the buzzword,” Andrew explains, elaborating on the ease of having a private driver. “Grandparents, parents and kids, or a group of friends, can share the experience together. It can be catered to everyone’s interests.”

The drive leads us to the Irish National Stud in County Kildare, a thoroughbred horse breeding facility, where we, as part of a group tour, wander farm trails and paddocks filled with majestic stallions, mares, foals, and retired racing champions.

Horse racing is one of Ireland's most popular spectator sports. On the international stage, the country is known as one of the strongest producers and trainers of thoroughbred horses.

RIT’s Manor Royal Tour stops at the Irish National Stud – and it’s a guest favourite, Andrew tells me. The visit includes time to explore serene Japanese gardens, which are part of the grounds.

The frolicking horses may steal the show, but the “Irish Racehorse Experience” puts you right in the saddle.

This interactive experience guides visitors through the lifecycle of an Irish thoroughbred, offering an opportunity to become an owner, trainer, and jockey. It leads up to a thrilling virtual race, where you take the reins of your very own galloping “horse.” (Hold on tight!)

It’s a ride where you can own a horse, train a horse, and be one with a horse — all before lunch.

Real Irish rain

Finally, after non-stop sunshine, it rains. A real Irish rain. Misty, drizzly, moody. The neon and moss-green countryside seemed to let out a sigh of relief, the grass stretching, as if it was waking up.  

The downpour, though brief, completes this two-day Irish jig. I bid farewell to Brendan and Andrew. It may have been a whirlwind, but our Royal Irish tour was educational as it was exhilarating.

And it's just the tip of the shamrock: RIT takes its guests all over Ireland, where iconic landmarks like the Cliffs of Moher, Giant’s Causeway, Blarney Castle, and the Rock of Cashel meet the quiet magic of towns and villages.

From Belfast in Northern Ireland, to the raw beauty of the Atlantic coast, the itineraries aim to capture Ireland (and Scotland, England and Wales) in all of its variety, through a local lens.

As for our two-day tour—if it was a long-awaited book, then I can’t wait to read the sequel.

Luxury Royal Irish retreats

Royal Irish Tours unlocks the best of Ireland, and depending on the itinerary, guests can also indulge in lavish stays that blend Irish charm with five-star comfort.

Here are three exceptional hotels we discovered during our visit.

The Fitzwilliam Hotel Dublin

Central location, adjacent to St. Stephen’s Green, a stone’s throw from Grafton Street. The stylish, 139-room Fitzwilliam Hotel in Dublin is the epitome of modern luxury. The magazine-ready guestrooms (no two are alike) glow with boutique-like finishes. The chic lobby marries contemporary design with classic elegance.

Recently completing a $13.5 million renovation, the independent hotel (with a sister property in Belfast) exudes an inviting atmosphere, where staff offer a level of warmth that feels more like friendship than formality.

It’s also a gastronomic haven, where Michelin-starred Glovers Alley by Andy McFadden (named after glove-makers who once occupied a neighbouring alleyway) plates Irish cuisine with French flare.

The gold and rose-toned hotel has earned a celebrity following—Beyoncé reportedly once booked the penthouse, and several executive rooms, for a week. Parents and multi-gen guests, meanwhile, can “Fitz their family” with kid-friendly stays that include a “Slumber Butler” service, which delivers cookies, hot milk and a bedtime story at night.

As Bronagh Kelleher, the hotel’s director of sales and marketing, put it: “People feel at home here." 

For a truly refined experience, consider The Fitzwilliam Townhouse, a preserved Georgian residence just a short stroll away. This exclusive stay, with nine bedrooms and two restaurants, blends historic charm with modern comfort. Much of the townhouse remains unchanged, preserving its original character from 1836.

The Fitzwilliam can be booked with RIT’s chauffeur drives, high-end self-driving tours and city stays.

Fairmont Carton House

Fairmont Carton House – Ireland’s first and only Fairmont hotel – sits on 1,100 acres of lush parkland in Ireland’s Ancient East, 30 minutes from Dublin. It has 169 bedrooms—151 in the modern Garden Wing and 18 suites in an historic Manor House.

Here, guests can indulge in exceptional dining across six venues, including the Michelin-starred Morrison Room, and explore nearby Maynooth Village, where pub culture thrives.

Ideal for families and couples alike, the resort offers a range of activities within an expansive estate. We dine on Kilmore quay fish and chips at The Carriage House, a former lodge that once housed seven carriages. The dining venue, today, retains many of its 18th-century fixtures.

Seek out the hotel’s two-story whiskey library, where hundreds of bottles from around the world are shelved. It’s accessible through a secret door, disguised as a bookcase.

Carton House is also home to two championship golf courses – it was the host venue for the 2025 KPMG Women's Irish Open.

RIT clients can visit this hotel for lunch, a round of golf, a spa visit – or they can indulge longer with an extended stay.

The K Club

Tucked away in the heart of County Kildare, 30 minutes from Dublin, The K Club is a five-star haven where old-world glamour meets contemporary indulgence.

Set across 550 acres of lush parkland, with 134 lavish rooms and suites, this grand estate – originally built as Straffan House in 1832, modelled after a French chateau – evokes the charm and refinement of a bygone era, while brimming with sophistication.

At the heart of the resort lie two golf courses, including the legendary Palmer North Course—best known as the venue for the 2006 Ryder Cup. But The K Club is more than a golfer’s paradise. Guests can spend their days fly-fishing on the River Liffey, horse riding through the countryside, trying their hand at archery, or unwinding at the spa.

Welcome to the good life. The K Club is a flagship hotel for RIT’s Manor Royal Tour, which includes a two-night stay.

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