On Location: “Women are the travel trendsetters”: Solo female travel, in Norway, with Hurtigruten

“Now would be a good time to pop a seasick tablet,” it was cheerfully announced, as our Hurtigruten expedition ship, the Kong Harald, pulled away from the dock in Molde, Norway, setting course for the open sea en route to the Arctic Circle.

Or I suppose you could just grab a “Stormy Weather” bag which are sprinkled throughout the ship.

But don’t expect the comforts of a typical cruise.

“This is not a cruise ship”, Captain Leif Ven told us. “It is a working ship.”

The Norwegian Sea and North Atlantic, in March, are not for the faint of heart.

Yet here I was, hosting a group of women – solo travellers, age 50-plus – on an expedition with JourneyWoman, a widely-respected solo travel resource for women.

“Women are the travel trendsetters”

Most of my group weren’t just in their 50s—we had people in their 60s and 70s as well.

Women who were just at home wearing ice gripper crampons on their hiking boots as they were sporting heels back in their career heydays.

They came from diverse backgrounds—a recently-retired CEO of a data marketing company, a nurse, and former directors in the hotel industry—and represented regions across Canada, the United States, and Australia.

We had all signed up for the Northern Lights Coastal tour, which would serendipitously have International Women’s Day, on March 8, land right in the middle.

“Women are the travel trendsetters,” said Johan Pearson, the Expedition Leader for the Kong Harald. “Women are more adventurous. Women go first, and then the men follow.”

Pearson led many of the excursions offered during our journey, and having been with the company for more than 15 years, he spoke from experience.

And the customer profile? Independent women who value the reassurance and connection that comes from the support of other women while travelling.

“We want to travel solo, but we want to hang out with other women,” said Shelly, 73.

12 days, 34 stops

The full Coastal Express tour offered by Hurtigruten takes 12 days to complete, with 34 stops, leaving from Bergen, and turning around at the top in Kirkenes.

It covers over 2,500 nautical miles. Many of the stops are in the middle of the night for ferry purposes or loading supplies.

Its role as a working ferry—providing essential transport for many northern Norwegians—sets it apart. At any given time, it carries a maximum of 590 passengers onboard.

“With passengers coming and going, the atmosphere is constantly changing,” Pearson said.

Sustainability at sea

Hurtigruten is continually seeking ways to reduce its environmental impact, making sustainability an integral part of the onboard experience.

Their shore-power connectivity allows all of their ships to “plug in” to electricity when docked in port, reducing emissions when shore power is available.

There is the equivalent of 1,200 Tesla batteries onboard, reducing emissions by 25 per cent.

Their Project Sea Zero program has just finished its research and development stage, but hopes to have the largest battery-operated ship at sea by 2030.

Unpacking the North Cape

Hurtigruten offers many different excursions for passengers during the trip, and the ones offered are suitable for different levels of fitness and activity.

“The North Cape is our most popular excursion,” said Pearson. “You are most likely to see the Northern Lights from there, the northern most part of Europe.”

When we found ourselves off course due to storms, and unexpectedly in Honningsvåg, the Hurtigruten excursion staff quickly put together a trip to the North Cape, which had been previously missed.

This is the northernmost reachable tip of Europe. There were some logistical hiccups along the way, but all was forgotten and forgiven when green, blue, and faintly-pink light clouds appeared in the sky.

Weather is unpredictable, particularly when you’re dealing with open seas in March, so while several other stops and excursions were cancelled, all guests accepted that safety came first and entertained themselves with the onboard hot tubs, lectures, gym and walking track.

Card games, board games, a library, even talk of learning Mah Jong meant no one was bored.

One of the main reasons travellers choose to take the Hurtigruten North Coastal tour is to immerse themselves in the majesty of the natural world. 

But with the natural world comes circumstances that are beyond human control. Packing flexibility and the ability to pivot contributes to the enjoyment of this cruise.

“The great thing about this trip is that we’re with a group of women and we can be social and connect if we want to. It feels safe. We can sort of look out for one another,” said Deborah, travelling with her two sisters.

Bucket-list Norway

Torget, the main restaurant on board, is open for buffet breakfast and lunch, with a seated three-course dinner.

The food selection and quality are impressive. Traditional Norwegian foods (reindeer sausage, cod tongues) are mixed with a more continental flair. Vegetarian and some vegan options were also offered.

For an optional fee, guests are invited to dine at Kysten, a gourmet restaurant served a la carte with a wide array of delicacies such as rakfish mousse, raw shrimp with sea urchins, reindeer entrecote, wolffish and for dessert, aquavit-marinated cloudberries.

While there’s no dedicated running track, the ship features a full wraparound walking deck and a well-equipped gym, which was frequently used.

This sense of comfort and independence aligns closely with Hurtigruten’s strong appeal to solo female travellers.

As Carly Biggart, head of the Americas for Hurtigruten, said: “The solo female market is very important to Hurtigruten, and we do welcome quite a lot of solo female travellers on board.”

"Norway is consistently ranked one of the safest destinations in the world, making it an excellent choice for solo female travellers. And cruising also attracts a lot of solo travellers, particularly female."

A dinner was organized in Bergen the night before the cruise started.  We all shared our reasons for being on this trip, which included a retirement celebration, a 70th birthday, a health scare, and some Northern Lights bucket-list checkmarks.

“The Canadian market is very important to us and quite strong with the trade specifically,” noted Biggart.

“There is a natural resonance with Norway among Canadian consumers.  Being Canadian myself, I feel the draw of the lifestyle of Norway.  When I get on our coastal ships, it feels a little like coming home.  It’s so cozy and laid back.”

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