On Location: Dumplings, dynasties & Dreamliners – PAX unpacks Shanghai on Air Canada’s relaunched YYZ route

“Follow me like sticky rice!” called our tour guide, Julie, weaving us through the thick crowds of Shanghai’s Old Street.

It’s an historic neighbourhood, where restored Ming and Qing-dynasty-style buildings house beloved local eateries, like steaming soup dumpling outlets, centuries-old tea houses, and bright souvenir shops.

This Old Town feels like a step back in time, where ancient architecture, from the final imperial eras of China, stands in striking contrast to a forest of glass-covered skyscrapers that define one of the world’s largest cities.

That’s Shanghai – a megacity of more than 25 million people, where nods to the past, and cutting-edge modernity, share the same skyline.

And this week, Canadian travel professionals are discovering it firsthand.

From now until June 13, a delegation of advisors and sales teams is touring Shanghai, Beijing, Tangshan and Chengde, diving deep into the culture and attractions that have made China one of the world’s most captivating tourism destinations.

The big trip was organized to mark the relaunch of Air Canada’s Toronto–Shanghai service—a year-round route, operating four times a week, aboard a 298-seat Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner. 

READ MORE: On Location: Ready, set, Shanghai! Air Canada revives YYZ service; visa-free China fuels demand

It returns after a six-year hiatus. It also complements Air Canada's already-active daily service to Shanghai from Vancouver.

The Canada-China market is “extremely important” to the airline,” said Air Canada’s David Rheault, vice president, government and community relations, speaking at a gate ceremony at Toronto Pearson last Wednesday (June 3) to celebrate the route’s relaunch. 

“Despite operational challenges, including the prohibition of Russia overflight, we remain committed to serving this market and increasing our footprint,” Rheault said at the event.

PAX was invited aboard the inaugural, 15.5-hour flight – which, by the way, was full – and is currently in China alongside travel pros as part of a dawn-to-dusk itinerary showcasing the destination’s top highlights.

The FAM, joined by Air Canada’s Deejay Lee (partner, speciality sales), is timely as China enjoys renewed momentum in 2026, buoyed by its introduction of visa-free access for Canadian travellers.

As announced in February, on the heels of Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney’s diplomatic visit to Beijing, Canadians – until at least December 31 this year – can now travel to China without a visa for tourism, business or transit for up to 30 days.

READ MORE: China confirms visa-free access for Canadian visitors

As a result, Canadian demand for China “has boomed,” said Barbara Huang, office manager at the China National Tourist Office, who is also on the trip.

“Following the introduction of the new visa policy, many tourists have transitioned from first-time visitors to regular re-visitors, broadening their travels from major cities such as Beijing and Shanghai to more off-the-beaten-path destinations,” Huang told PAX. 

Participants on this week’s trip agree. Tracy Chan, senior director, business development at Royal Scenic, said China is “very popular” right now.

“People are really curious about China,” Chan told PAX. “It’s so historical, but you can also see the new and the old.”

“The new visa-free policy is also a big benefit.” 

From fishing village to metropolis

“Nǐ hǎo!” It’s a common Mandarin-Chinese phrase for "Hello.” 

The best way to start a journey in China is with a language lesson.

In Shanghai, you'll see some English signage, mixed with Chinese characters, and hear occasional English in popular tourist areas.

But Mandarin, and traditional Shanghainese, remain the dominant language of daily life.

Julie, our guide, with a wealth of local insight and a sharp sense of humour, gave us the Coles Notes version of Shanghai over a speaker system during our bus transfer from Shanghai Pudong International Airport to our hotel.

With rush-hour traffic clogging the highways, we had plenty of time to talk. Although, on workdays like this, some 11 million people in Shanghai will use the subway, Julie explained.

“But don’t try it in rush hour…unless you know Chinese Kung Fu,” she quipped. “It’s very crowded.”

As we drove deeper into the city, Shanghai’s sprawling skyline came into view. It’s a dense blend of East meets West, where neoclassical architecture stands alongside futuristic supertowers.

Around us, the city’s elevated highways twist and coil through the urban landscape like giant Slinkys.

We cross the iconic Nanpu Bridge, renowned for its dramatic double-tower cable-stayed design and distinctive circular, multi-level spiral approach, which links the Huangpu River crossings.

In the distance, we see the famed “Pudong Trio,” Shanghai’s trio of architectural giants: Shanghai Tower, which rises 632 metres as China’s tallest building and the world’s third tallest; the bottle-opener-shaped Shanghai World Financial Centre, and the tiered Jin Mao Tower.

Together, they form one of the most iconic skylines in Asia.

“We’re a modern city. Our history is very short,” said Julie.

While the Shanghai region has been inhabited for thousands of years, the city’s fast rise from a modest fishing village to one of the world’s most dynamic metropolises is nothing short of extraordinary.

Its fortunes shifted dramatically in the 19th century when international trade treaties opened the city to global commerce, transforming Shanghai into a thriving centre of finance, culture, and innovation.

In the wake of the Opium Wars, Shanghai’s profile soared.

The city became a fascinating patchwork of cultures, with foreign concessions – including the International Settlement and the French Concession – existing alongside the traditional Chinese city.

This cosmopolitan era earned Shanghai the nickname “Paris of the East,” during the 1920s and 30s, a reputation still reflected today in the Art Deco landmarks that line The Bund.

The opening of the Pudong New Area in the 1990s marked a turning point in Shanghai’s story, transforming what was once largely farm land into a glittering financial district, fuelling the city’s meteoric rise as a global economic powerhouse.

The futuristic skyline and relentless energy you see today stand as symbols of one of the most remarkable urban transformations in modern history.

After checking into the Xijiao State Guest Hotel – it’s a peaceful, 1,200-acre garden resort, and our homebase for four days – we dived straight into it all.

Tea, fit for a Queen

Our first stop? Yuyuan Garden, a masterpiece of Ming Dynasty landscape design dating back more than 450 years.

Amid the hustle and bustle of Shanghai, the garden is a glimpse into another era.

Ornate pavilions, koi-filled ponds, dramatic rockeries, winding pathways and ginkgo trees create a serene retreat, while intricate dragon-crested walls (symbols of power, good fortune and strength) weave through the grounds.

While the garden's beauty is undeniable, so is its popularity. The pathways were packed with visitors angling for the perfect selfie, making it clear that we weren't the only ones seeking a taste of old Shanghai.

Looking for a quieter moment, our group slipped into the adjacent Old Town and made our way to the legendary Huxinting Teahouse.

Perched on stilts above a small lake in the heart of a bustling bazaar, Huxinting is one of China's oldest continuously operating teahouses.

Crossing a zig-zag bridge to reach its entrance felt like stepping into a living piece of history.

Inside, a young woman, gently playing the pipa — a traditional Chinese string instrument with a distinctive pear-shaped wooden body and four strings — welcomed us as we sat down in the teahouse’s top floor.

We settled in for a traditional tea service featuring premium Chinese teas such as fragrant jasmine, accompanied by classic Shanghainese snacks including dried plums and other delicacies.

The teahouse's guest list over the years reads like a who's who of global leaders and celebrities.

Queen Elizabeth II famously visited during her 1986 tour of China, while former U.S. President Bill Clinton has also been welcomed here.

In a moment of admittedly nerdy travel excitement, I learned that I was seated at the very same table – and in the very same chair – once occupied by the Queen herself.

Charging into the future

If Yuyuan Garden showcased Shanghai's past, our next stop demonstrated just how the city is charging into the future.

The recently opened Shanghai Museum East is impossible to miss.

Located in Pudong, the ultra-modern institution spans an astonishing 120,000 square metres and opened in 2024 as one of China's most ambitious new cultural landmarks.

During a guided tour, we explored ancient bronzes from the Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties, some dating back 5,000 years.

Dragons, yaks and mythical creatures emerged from the intricate castings, showcasing remarkable craftsmanship.

Higher, and higher up  

We then swapped ancient history for jaw-dropping modernity: no visit to Shanghai is complete without ascending the Shanghai Tower.

At 632 metres tall and 128 storeys high, the twisting glass giant is China's tallest building and the third-tallest in the world.

Wrapped in more than 20,300 glass panels, its spiralling design evokes a dragon rising into the sky. A fitting symbol for a city that seems perpetually reaching higher.

Getting to the top is half the adventure. We boarded one of the fastest elevators on the planet and shot skyward at speeds of up to 20 metres per second.

The ride lasts just 55 seconds, though it feels like a scene straight out of Willy Wonka.

Ears popped, legs turned to jelly, and suddenly we found ourselves on the 118th-floor observation deck. The reward? A spectacular 360-degree panorama.

From above, Shanghai looked less like a city and more like an elaborate miniature model.

Towering apartment buildings appeared toy-sized, highways resembled ribbons and cars became tiny moving dots.

In the distance, we spotted a Viking cruise ship, docked along the waterfront, a reminder that Shanghai is also one of Asia's most important cruise gateways.

As impressive as Shanghai is by day, it truly comes alive after dark.

That evening, we boarded a dinner cruise on the Huangpu River, stepping aboard a vessel adorned with traditional dragon motifs before gliding past a skyline, glittering like a scene from a sci-fi film.

Skyscrapers shimmered in synchronized displays of colour and lights while the iconic Oriental Pearl TV Tower glowed against the night sky.

The tower, with its neon-lit spheres and retro-futuristic silhouette, looked as though it had been plucked directly from an episode of The Jetsons. 

Temple & art crawl

The next day was just as compelling.

We visited Jade Buddha Temple, one of Shanghai's most important Buddhist sites and a welcome respite from the city's relentless pace.

Beyond its traditional courtyards lie two treasured Burmese jade Buddha statues: a magnificent 1.9-metre seated Buddha adorned with jewels and a smaller reclining Buddha depicting the moment of enlightenment.

The temple offered a glimpse into daily spiritual life. Worshippers lit incense as offerings of prayer and purification, while others tossed coins toward the large multi-tiered incense burner in hopes of attracting good fortune.

The scent of sandalwood drifted through the air, creating an atmosphere that felt worlds away from Shanghai's skyscrapers.

From centuries-old tradition, we pivoted once again to contemporary culture at the Xuhui Riverside district and the West Bund Museum.

This waterfront area has rapidly emerged as one of Shanghai's most dynamic arts and lifestyle hubs, blending galleries, restaurants shopping and riverside promenades.

The museum itself is particularly notable thanks to its partnership with Paris's Centre Pompidou, bringing internationally acclaimed modern and contemporary art exhibitions to Shanghai audiences.

Paris of the East

The city's personality shifted yet again once we arrived at Wukang Road.

Located in the former French Concession, the leafy avenue embodies the sophisticated charm that earned Shanghai its "Paris of the East" moniker.

Elegant 1920s villas sit beneath mature plane trees, while stylish cafés, boutiques and bakeries spill onto the sidewalks.

Influencers appeared to outnumber residents, mind you, with each hunting for the perfect selfie among the historic facades.

Naturally, we joined them. No visit is complete without posing in front of Wukang Mansion, Shanghai's most photographed apartment building.

Completed in 1924, the flatiron-style structure anchors the neighbourhood and remains one of the city's most recognizable architectural icons.

All aboard “The Louis”

Shanghai excels at the unexpected.

Another night, we visited The Louis, a spectacular three-storey architectural installation created by French luxury fashion house Louis Vuitton at HKRI Taikoo Hui on Nanjing West Road.

Designed to resemble a cruise ship, the 30-metre-tall structure combines retail, exhibition space and storytelling.

We wandered through the mesmerizing "Trunkscape" installation, where floating monogram trunks appeared suspended within an ever-changing digital landscape, alongside exhibits exploring the brand's connection to travel and craftsmanship.

Fashion and travel…in a luxury cruise ship? What could be better? (The Louis is also free to experience – all you have to do is make a time reservation).

Just steps away sits another landmark: the Starbucks Reserve Roastery.

Spanning nearly 30,000 square feet across two levels, it is the largest Starbucks in Asia and the second-largest in the world.

Calling it a “coffee shop” felt wildly inadequate.

Inside, roasting equipment, tasting stations, specialty beverages and endless opportunities for caffeine-fuelled exploration make it a destination in its own right.

The “Venice of Shanghai”

Meanwhile, Zhujiajiao Water Town offered another welcome step back in time.

Located about 45 minutes from the city, this ancient village (which is great for day trips) holds more than 1,000 years of history.

Its winding canals, centuries-old stone bridges and well-preserved Ming and Qing Dynasty architecture create a striking contrast to the glass towers of we experienced a day earlier. 

Here, we spent an afternoon wandering a cobblestone labyrinth lined with shops and market stalls, where vendors eagerly handed out free samples of local snacks.

There were even skewers of deep-fried scorpions – a street-food specialty that attracted plenty of curious looks.

The highlight, however, was taking to the water.

Aboard a traditional wooden boat, expertly steered by a local oarsman, we glided through Zhujiajiao's canopied canal network, passing beneath stone bridges and alongside waterfront buildings covered in ivy. 

There’s a reason this area is often called the "Venice of Shanghai."

Calling all foodies

Of course, no visit to Shanghai would be complete without mentioning the food. The city’s approach to dining was a delightful shock to the system.

For our group, meals have unfolded as special events, served in private dining rooms centred around enormous round tables equipped with equally enormous lazy Susans.

And the food just kept coming.

Every meal, so far, has featured ten courses or more, with dishes arriving in an endless parade.

What's on the menu? A lot. 

Sweet-and-sour chicken, glazed stuffed duck, hot-and-sour soup, handmade dumplings, stir-fried shrimp, steamed crab, tofu dishes, pork-filled bao buns, kung pao chicken, pan-fried lamb chops, beef smothered in oyster sauce, pork served with thin pancakes, deep-fried "squirrel-shaped" Mandarin fish. The list goes on...and on.

And several dining moments have taken place in some of Shanghai's most storied venues.

One standout restaurant? Meilongzhen on Nanjing West Road. 

Housed within a historic residence, and serving guests for nearly a century, the restaurant combines old-world elegance with exceptional Shanghainese cuisine – a fitting setting for a city that balances heritage and modernity at every turn.

“Big progress” in tourism

For Loletta Chiu, director of revenue management and business analytics at Voyzant Travel, the FAM is both professional and personal.

Having led a group of 60 Canadians through China back in the 1980s, she said the country’s tourism sector has made “big progress” since then.

“Being Chinese, I am very happy and proud of the country,” Chiu told PAX.

Air Canada’s restored service to Shanghai from Toronto, combined with visa-free access, is a game-changer that “turns a new page,” she said.

“It’s not only convenient for Canadians," she said, "but it’s also a sign that the two countries are willing to build business and a future together." 

Next stop, Beijing! Stay tuned for more of PAX’s on-the-ground coverage of China with Air Canada and the National Tourist Office of China!

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