5 things PAX learned about Andalucia, Spain

I’m ashamed to admit it: I really thought I knew Spain.

Having been to Barcelona a few years ago, and had all the ham, Gaudi and patatas bravas I could handle, I’d checked the destination off my travel list, quite satisfied.

But after visiting the Andalucia region of Spain’s southern coast - particularly Malaga, Granada, Úbeda and Cordoba - last week with Visit Andalucia and the Tourist Office of Spain, I had a jarring realization: when it comes to this country’s touristic offerings, I only knew un poco.

A significantly sun-baked and blue-skied stretch of land located south of Madrid along the Alboran Sea (off the Mediterranean and Atlantic Ocean), Andalucia is most famous for its flamenco dancers, matadors and olive groves, but there’s a lot more to the land of beaches and bull-fighting (which still takes place in Malaga, though the practice is widely banned elsewhere in the country) than meets the eye.

Here are five things that may surprise you about Andalucia:

1. Andalucia takes ancient history to a whole new level

A ceiling of blended cultures in Córdoba’s Mezquita Mosque-Cathedral

While Andalucia boasts all the classic, sun-bleached and terracotta tile architecture one would expect from southern Spain, the area was actually under Moorish rule between the eighth and 15th centuries, and thus features a number of jaw-dropping structures throughout Malaga, Granada, and Córdoba dating back to when sultans ruled the region.

Points of interest include La Alcazaba in Malaga, one of the best-preserved fortresses in Spain, where cobbled pathways chronicle centuries of original anti-piracy, as well as wood-carved ceilings and marble columns rescued from Roman ruins.

Granada’s Alhambra palace offers a similar sense of long-lived defence - albeit on a larger scale - in addition to the sophisticated splendour of an incredibly lavish and well-restored sultan’s palace from the 14th century.

From there, Córdoba’s Mezquita Mosque-Cathedral harkens back to a time when religions clashed; visitors can witness an ancient mosque that was converted to a Roman Catholic cathedral and Basilica, and the marriage of two singularly elaborate architectures therein.

2. Tourist-free travel still exists in some places

Santa Maria de Los Reales Alcazares Church in Ubeda

While larger cities like Malaga, Granada and Cordoba have cornered the market on beach and culture-focused tourism to the point where they have their own seasons (culture tourism ranges from April to June, with beach season beginning in early July), smaller areas such as Úbeda and its neighbouring city Baéza (both boasting UNESCO World Heritage Sites and a lucrative olive oil industry) are only just starting to make their mark, meaning it’s still possible to sightsee without battling the crowds.

Úbeda’s main draws include a number of churches and palaces from the Renaissance period, particularly the El Salvador Chapel and Dean Ortega's Palace (now a Parador hotel), while Baéza is home to a number of medieval structures, including its signature cathedral (also built over a former mosque - sense a pattern developing here?) and a 16th century university which still functions as a high school.

With their UNESCO designations still fresh as of 2003, the towns are both working to improve on their tourism, using Úbeda’s position as one of the top olive oil producer to develop an impressive and varied gastronomic scene among its restaurant industry.

3. It’s not all anchovies and Iberian ham (although they’re must-haves, too)

Chocolate canvas, a dessert eaten off a tablecloth at Cantina La Estacion

Further to the above, Andalucia is the proud home to a unique blend of Mediterranean and traditional Spanish dishes in addition to a burgeoning experimental style of cuisine that is taking the smaller cities by storm.

Úbeda in particular plays host to some memorable dining experiences, such as an olive oil interpretation centre offering tasting workshops of the city’s “liquid gold,” a newly minted fine dining restaurant named Hotel Palacio de Úbeda (also the city’s only five-star hotel), and a quirky spot named Cantina La Estación, which offers guests nibbles in the form of mind games, which include olive-shaped truffles and tabletop performance-art.

Craving a more traditional setting? A number of Granada’s restaurants offer a superb view of the sun setting against an increasingly orange Alhambra, and, when timed correctly (namely, in June), a strawberry moon.

4. There are always new treasures being discovered

Britney Hope touching the ancient waters of the Mikveh in Ubeda’s recently discovered synagogue

In spite of its eighth century roots, Andalucia still has plenty of new attractions available throughout the region, growing both intentionally and by sheer luck as it develops its tourism.

Art buffs will revel in the extensive exhibit available at Malaga’s Picasso Museum, a beautifully curated collection of the artist’s most intimate works, donated to the establishment by his family and cannot be found anywhere else.

Archaeology aficionados, on the other hand, will be thrilled to learn that Úbeda is the proud home of a 14th century synagogue (discovered by chance in the midst of an apartment development) offering incredible insights into the region’s ancient Jewish culture, as well as access to a rare Mikveh, complete with natural spring waters that become illuminated by morning sunlight for a truly ethereal experience.

5. It’s the perfect place to up your road trip game

Olive groves stretching out along Andalucia’s rural countryside

Our entire tour was completed by car, navigating well-kept roads and highways that offered incomparable scenic views of olive groves and regal architecture in addition to plenty of places to stop for lunch.

While Andalucia’s cities are all significantly walkable once you arrive, they’re also easily reachable from one point to the other (Malaga to Granada was the longest drive, at two hours) and can make for a breezy, culture-filled week-long road trip or a series of single day excursions if staying at a central location (such as Cordoba).

The Spanish also drive in the same car and road configuration as North America, meaning all you need is to be able to read Spanish road signs, cue up your Google maps, and hit the dusty olive trail.