On Location: Tea & syrup parties in the forest? Summer at Club Med Charlevoix is as Canadian as it gets

Clink, clink, clink.

The sound of tiny blue cups tapping together – followed by a collective “cheeeeers!” – filled the air as we toasted our decision to cut the work week short and enjoy a long weekend away.   

Summer was calling, and the order of the day for our group – the four of us – was not cocktails. Rather, an unexpected tea party. And this one wasn’t your average tea-bag-and-biscuit affair.

We weren’t gripping flowery porcelain cups and sipping Earl Grey in a stuffy vintage tea room.

No, no. Our venue, on this occasion, was Quebec’s own boreal forest – a stretch of greenery so intense you’d think it was enhanced by CGI – supported by a good ole’ fashioned picnic table, solid wood, plopped in the middle of the wilderness, anchored into a gentle slope.  

Our host, a biology graduate name Anne-Sophie, a hiking guide, had led us some thirty minutes into the woods to reach this remote, leafy spot. And she supplied the tea – a Thermos filled with an infusion of balsam fir, spruce, and wild rose petals.  

Labrador Tea, served cold. It tasted like forest.

And, replacing cookies and cakes, were the rawest of sweets: spoons full of maple and birch syrups, Canada’s liquid gold, extracted from the very trees that surrounded us, using techniques first pioneered by Indigenous communities.

As we licked spoons, Anne-Sophie rolled out a laminated chart that showed the various of degrees of sweetness found in local syrups. She challenged us to guess where our samples landed on the flavour wheel. A game of Name That Syrup, if you will. 

Welcome to summertime at Club Med Quebec Charlevoix, where life is as Canadian as it gets.

Canada’s first (and only) Club Med

Canada’s first and only Club Med (and only all-inclusive mountain resort) opened in December 2021, at the height of the pandemic, billing itself as a one-stop ski shop for families, couples, singles, friends and corporate groups.

As PAX learned during a stay at the still-new property from July 13-16, the 302-room resort is wedged into the slope of a forested region, at the foot of a ski hill, in between quiet villages, in a prime position: high up, facing the grand St. Lawrence River, on the north shore.

The Trident-branded compound – Club Med’s first mountain venture in the Americas – is a major addition to the nature-wrapped municipality of Charlevoix, which, previously, offered just a small ecosystem of boutique hotels

As a winter/ski destination, the resort (which includes lessons, lift tickets, a sprawling locker room, and more) has a competitive edge.  

Located about an hour’s drive from Quebec City, Club Med in Charlevoix – which the local tourism board describes as a “region between mountains and the sea” – is the only waterfront ski resort in Le Massif (the name of the area and company that owns the mountain, including the Club Med building itself).

Here, winter guests can access 40 kilometres of slopes carved into the highest vertical drop east of the Rockies.

There are few mountain resorts in the world where you can ski or snowboard and see water at the same time.

If anything, it’s a reminder that Club Med – a 70-year-strong brand built on all-inclusive activities and togetherness – is more than just sand and sun.  

The company, which launched in 1950, actually operates more than 20 all-inclusive mountain resorts around the world, from The Alps in Europe to Asia, and now, Canada.

Summer, activated

But when summer hits, Club Med Quebec Charlevoix, a four-season destination, beats a slightly different drum.

With skiing out of the picture, the property connects guests to the great outdoors in other ways, via hiking and biking trails on Le Massif de Charlevoix, sky-high gondola rides, and other wellness activities, such as yoga, meditation, spin classes in studios (and a gym) that faces trees that emerged from the ground two centuries ago.

Kids can take advantage of circus lessons, mini golf and ping-pong tables (fun for adults, too!).

There’s also a 23-metre long heated pool with views of the St. Lawrence, hammocks on the deck, a Hammam, an outdoor jacuzzi and sun loungers.

It’s a jam-packed all-inclusive stay, especially for active types, and with Club Med’s handy app, it’s an easy-to-follow program.

Forest & forest edibles

Our nature hike/tea party/syrup tasting was one of many adventures that guests could choose from (click here to see the menu).

For hikes, which run in small groups, guests register in advance and meet their guides (local experts) at the back of the property in a gravel-covered area next to a basketball court (which can also be used for tennis).

(Travel tip: pack a light shell jacket. Even though it’s summer, it can get cool on the mountain on overcast days).

Trails are connected to Club Med and pass through areas that are used for Le Massif’s winter season, from its ski lift (which transports hikers and bikers to the top of the mountain, where soaring views await) to a boutique café and store called “Forêt Gourmande,” which sells teas, syrups, spreads, and spices made from ingredients sourced directly from the mountain.

“Forest edibles,” as our guide Anne-Sophie, also a Forêt Gourmande employee, put it.

If you’re craving hot chocolate “with mountain pepper,” you’ll find it here.

Some trails, which cross bridges, rivers and wild mushrooms, revealed signs of local industry: during our hike, a network of syrup tapping tubes, strung between trees, hung above our heads like vines in a jungle.

Grab your mountain bike  

Club Med, with a range of included activities, is also a great place to try new things. For us, that meant mountain biking, which requires advanced registration at a sign-up desk.

Bikes, helmets and protective gear were provided, and our instructor reviewed the mechanics of the bikes, and watched us take them for a spin, before our tires even hit the trails, which are accessible to all levels.  

But it’s not as easy as it looks! Even on the amateur run, which had dips and turns, I still managed to disconnect my chain and splatter mud all over my legs. (Oh, the drama!)

This is where the “Club Med spirit” – the idea of bringing people together, from different places, around happiness – kicked in.

Despite the intensity of mountain cycling, everyone participating was supportive of one another and appeared to be having fun. Even when things got messy.

It was great way to make memories with other Club Med guests, who we’d continue to run into during our stay.

G.O.s, Crazy Signs & the number 45

Then there’s the property itself, where every turn is an invitation to connect with people, nature and odes to Canada.  

Firstly, if you’re new to Club Med, you’ll encounter a new glossary of terms, such as “G.O.s” (“Gracious Organizers,” Club Med’s term for staff), “G.M.s” (“Gentile Members,” the guests) and the Chef De Village (the general manager). 

G.O.s, who are of various nationalities, quickly become your besties as they’re urged to dine with guests and participate in the nightly shows (which are packed with talent and fun).

It’s a genuine connection that lends itself to a welcoming and friendly resort where people know your name.

After dinner, and when shows conclude, G.O.s and guests will rally in the main common area for “Crazy Signs,” a choreographed dance ritual that happens at Club Meds everywhere.

Think of it as line dancing, except with cooler dance moves and upbeat music that ranges from pop songs, like Mr. Saxobeat and Jerusalema, to retro French tunes.

Fans of Club Med love Crazy Signs. (And, if you’re new to the brand, you’ll catch on to it quickly!)

Children and teens, meanwhile, connect in spacious, colourful Kids Clubs (Petite Club Med) for all ages, including one for babies aged four to 23 months.

The baby club costs extra, but it’s something you don’t usually see at all-inclusive resorts.

Club Med also has daily dress codes. It isn’t enforced, but many guests get into the themes, whether it be “pastels,” “flowers,” or “45” (which refers to the Club Med t-shirts that are sold in the boutique).

The branded tees, which display the number 45 and the name of the resort location it was purchased at, first appeared in 1995 when Club Med celebrated its 45th anniversary.

The shirts are still very popular, and today, they’re a symbol of unity (and, arguably, very clever marketing).

Not just for French speakers

Celebrations are also a big deal at Club Med.

During our visit, it happened to be Bastille Day, a national holiday in France. And so, an exciting blue-white-and-red party, complete with projections of France’s flag, was held.

But this shouldn’t lead English speakers into thinking that Club Med is for French people only.

Yes, the company’s head office is located in Paris, France, and when visiting a Club Med, you will likely hear guests speaking en francais because the brand is popular in Quebec and with Europeans in general.

But French is not mandatory as all the G.O.s speak English, among other languages.

Club Med isn’t French, it's international.

The Canadian stamp

But it’s the nature-chic design at Club Med Charlevoix that puts a Canadian stamp on it all.  

From the moment you enter the cozy lobby on the ground floor, nods to Canada immediately pop: cardinal-red paint, locally-sourced woods, plaid carpeting, a wall installation featuring snow shoes, sleds and faux elk and moose heads.

With a long LED-lit fireplace, the lobby feels like the living room of an upscale cabin.

On the building’s exterior, there’s a stripe resembling the multicoloured arrow sash worn by Bonhomme, the jolly red tuque-wearing snowman and mascot of Quebec’s famous Winter Carnival.

The rest of the three-building resort unfolds on the floors above, where hallways are accented with artsy graphics of forest animals, from rabbits to elks. The outside is brought inside. 

And guests will also see décor nods to Indigenous and First Nations communities. (Although, the hotel could probably lose the play teepee by the swimming pool).

There are three dining spaces: firstly, Le Marché, a main gourmet marketplace, which is like a buffet, except many of the dishes are artful, pre-plated Chef’s creations, served in a grab-and-go style, that change daily.

The cheesy tartiflette (a gooey casserole of potatoes that originated from the French Alps) was fantastique. So was the sautéed octopus.

(If I had one wish, though, it would be for the marketplace to feature more cuisine and desserts from Quebec).

Le Marché’s five dining rooms, which includes an adults-only section and two terraces, are lined with big windows and themed around food gathering methods historic to regions in Canada.

One room has nautical elements, like rope, and lights that are held up by fishing poles and netting (Atlantic Canada). Another has installations inspired by wheat (the Prairies).

One room chirps alive with wall sculptures of ravens, bird houses and lights hidden in nests.  

There’s an emphasis on farm-to-table dining – some 80 per cent of the products on property are said to come from Canada, including ingredients from Charlevoix-based suppliers.

Around the corner from Le Marché is a lofty, wood-peppered lounge, called Le Chalet, which offers soaring views of the St. Lawrence and its passing ships (which Le Marché also has).

Here, guests can find quick snacks, from charcuterie to poutine (now we’re talking). 

There’s also the barn-like Terroir & Co, where at lunch, the area welcomes the kids clubs. For dinner, it becomes a cheese specialty restaurant offering fondues and raclettes made with Quebec-based cheeses and charcuteries.

This costs extra ($45 plus tax for adults age 11 and up; $35 for young kids), but it’s worth it if you value local flavour.

Another dining option outside of the all-inclusive package is the “Tomahawk” steak experience, which costs $170 plus tax for two people.

Cozy Canadiana

Canadiana flows into the accommodations as well.

Suite categories include Superior, Deluxe and the Exclusive Collection (Club Med’s highest service level option), all of which have balconies and versions for couples and families.

We stayed in a Deluxe room, which had panoramic views of that majestic St. Lawrence River – the star of Club Med Charlevoix.

With contrasting hues of yellow and red, our room was reminiscent of an ancestral home, from the attic-like ceiling to forest-inspired furniture.

The main table in our common area resembled two pieces of ringed wood, sliced from a tree trunk.

The resort’s five-trident Exclusive Collection, notably, has 25 spacious suites, spread across three floors (21 for families, three for couples, one accessible).

Guests staying in this upscale category get their own indoor parking space, private check-in, concierge service and an exclusive lounge, which has a fireplace, two jacuzzis, a panoramic terrace, and a food and beverage area (enclosed by birch tree trunks, of course).

Do everything, do nothing

Summer bookings at Club Med Charlevoix are being driven by last-minute getaways, the team said, and a healthy flow of large groups (the resort has impressive ballroom/conference facilities).

Guests can also immerse themselves in French-Canadian culture by visiting nearby towns, including Québec City, Île d'Orléans, Baie-Saint-Paul, La Malbaie, and Baie-Sainte-Catherine, where seasonal whale watching awaits. 

But in the spirit of Club Med, you can also stay put, relax and do nothing. 

For us, this translated into a day of R&R at the property’s Sothys-branded spa, which has a divine menu of massage and skin care services (at an extra cost).

The highlight, here, was enjoying peace and tranquility in a kid-free relaxation space, located outside on a jacuzzi-equipped terrace that, once again, faces the St. Lawrence.

The takeaway

Canada isn’t really known for all-inclusive resorts, but if the high demand for all-in sun packages down south during winter proves anything, it’s that Canadians love one-price, hassle-free vacations.

For that reason alone, Club Med Quebec Charlevoix has a place at the hospitality table.

The brand is pricier, yes, but you have to consider the activity, entertainment and high-quality cuisine and drink inclusions in order to see and appreciate the value.  

Above all, Club Med Charlevoix offers something truly rare—a cozy escape infused with the authentic spirit of Canada.

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