On Location: “Ready for adventure”: PAX unpacks the Mekong with AmaWaterways & Expedia Cruises

“Gooood moooooooorning Vietnaaaam!” 

We’ve been in Ho Chi Minh City for no more than five minutes and our guide, Ten, (because he’s 10 of 11 siblings), is already giving us the Robin Williams treatment on a bus microphone, imitating the late actor’s bombastic line, à la radio personality Adrian Cronauer, from his 1987 comedy-war film

If there was a place where high-energy greetings matched the environment, it would be Vietnam’s most populous city (also known as Saigon).

Ho Chi Minh City, a bustling metropolis of more than nine million people, and once a hub during the Vietnam War, is one of Southeast Asia's most culturally diverse destinations, vibrating with urban buzz and organized chaos.

Here, millions upon millions of motorbikes (scooters) flow through the streets like a river, at all hours, roaring past temples, skyscrapers and street vendors.

It’s a city that never sleeps, and downtown traffic, thick as pea soup, has a mind of its own, rarely yielding to pedestrians at crosswalks.

In these parts, you have to put your arm out, hold your breath and walk into traffic (and hope for the best). Cars and scooters, in most cases, will slow and flow around you. Just like water. 

Ho Chi Minh City, a humid haze of sounds and aromas, never stops moving.

And it was here – at Tan Son Nhat International (SNG), Vietnam’s busiest airport – where tour guides from AmaWaterways, a family-owned river cruise line, welcomed us with big signs, and even bigger smiles, to ease us into a two-night stay, at the glam Sofitel Saigon Plaza, in the city’s downtown core.

A jaunt in Saigon? Where bowls of hot pho, crispy bánh mì (Vietnamese sandwiches), maze-like markets, tranquil parks, classic French architecture, and rooftop nightclubs converge?

Yes please.

We came hungry – if only for affordable, farm-to-table cuisine, like bok choy-filled rice pancakes.  

But this was all just a precursor to the main event that would unfold in the days ahead – a seven-night, eight-day river cruise on the Mekong River, from My Tho Port in Vietnam (about two hours from Ho Chi Minh City) to Kampong Cham in southeastern Cambodia, with stops in ancient cities and rural villages along the way. 

Ama, founded in 2002, calls this itinerary “Charms of the Mekong,” with Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap serving as pre and post-cruise add-ons.

It’s one of two adventures the company offers on Asia’s famous trans-boundary river, where it has been perfecting luxurious, culture-rich cruises since 2009 (its other itinerary is called “Riches of the Mekong.”)

As part of a Canadian trade media exclusive, PAX, since last week, has been unpacking the “Charms” leg, in style, aboard Ama’s 124-passenger ship, the AmaDara, an intimate vessel with Oriental and French-colonial decor, twin-balcony staterooms, and classic-wood furnishings.

The epic voyage, which began on Oct. 16, unlocks a world of upscale service and authentic shore excursions into some of Vietnam and Cambodia’s most precious communities.  

It’s a service-oriented cruise, too. Within hours of boarding the ship, the hard-working crew, which are always smiling, had everyone’s names, favourite drinks and dietary preferences memorized.

As we’ve noted in the past, Ama guests are treated like family.  

Celebrating top achievers

But unique to this cruise, besides having the opportunity to learn about cultures and traditions, were the special guests on board.

On the manifest were top-achieving Canadian franchise owners from Expedia Cruises and their guests (for them, it was a President‘s Circle Platinum recognition trip).

Long-time brand strategist Sandra Gardiner, who was named AmaWaterways’ director of sales for Canada earlier this year, was also on board.

“It’s really exciting to get back on this river,” Gardiner told PAX, sharing that it’s been seven years since she last sailed the Mekong. “In a way, it’s a spiritual trip. When you come here, you feel the Buddhism, the culture, the peacefulness and the tranquility as you cruise along.”

It was also meaningful having Expedia Cruises’ top owners join the ride. 

“It means a lot for them to come on board, decompress, and have us celebrate their achievements – especially after everything they’ve been through over the past few years,” Gardiner said.

Wendy Li, an account manager at Expedia Cruises, said the company is “extremely grateful” for the opportunity to host its highest-performing franchisees with AmaWaterways, which she called “a long-standing and valued partner.”

“The time spent together allows our teams to gather in a special environment where they can celebrate their success and work on businesses together,” Li told PAX. “In addition, it’s an opportunity to build their knowledge of the AmaWaterways experience and learn about this incredible destination and itinerary.”

Li added that Expedia Cruises “remains confident” that river cruising “will continue to grow as we introduce more and more travellers to the experience.”

“Ama” means love, “Dara” means star

Describing an AmaWaterways cruise is a tale of two parts.

To begin, there’s the Ama ships – a fleet of elegantly-appointed vessels with spacious staterooms and suites that have view-enhancing twin balconies, and Master Chef-worthy culinary experiences.   

The influence of company co-founders Kristin Karst and partner Rudi Schreiner, dubbed the “Godfather of River Cruising” for his early roles in shaping Uniworld and Viking, and for having a hand in starting Avalon, is found fleet-wide.

The two are arbiters of style and taste (translated: the food on wine on board is good. Very good).

The ships have also been expertly designed, and have the shallowest drafts. Ama ships have been known to sail in water as low as 10 inches.

The richly-carved AmaDara, which launched in 2015, was built specifically for plying the Mekong, where gentle currents range from muddy brown to cool blue.

“Ama” means love, and “Dara” means star, and on board this “Love Star” of a ship, mahogany wood interiors exude a type of old-world glamour that one might find in an Agatha Christie novel.

There’s a jungly sundeck bursting with healthy green plants and orchids (and a fish tank), a small fitness room, an outdoor pool (a useful amenity for the hot and sticky Mekong), spa services, and daily activities (like yoga – Ama employs an onboard wellness expert).

There's also onboard cultural performances courtesy of locals. While docked in Phnom Pen, Cambodia’s capital, we were treated to a live coconut shell dance, and other folk performances, for example.  

The staff talent show, however, takes the cake as far as entertainment goes. 

For one night only, all the teams on board, from the kitchen to the wait staff to housekeeping, perform dance and song numbers, utilizing creative costumes and concepts that result in collective fun and hilarity. 

There’s a Chef's Table restaurant, in addition to a main restaurant, and a “Saigon Lounge,” which has panoramic views for cocktails.

Dining is included with unlimited wine with lunch and dinner. The menu, which includes Chef’s Recommendations, is updated daily with signature items, which are displayed at the restaurant’s entrance, like an art exhibit, at meal times.

Five-spice pork tenderloin, tea smoked duck, net rice noodles with roasted pork belly, braised lamb shank and Cambodian pork stew were just some of the stand-out dishes we devoured on board.  

Meanwhile, items like burgers, fries, salmon and chicken are always available, for those who prefer the basics, as are vegetarian items.

It’s also worth noting that complimentary local beer, house-brand spirits and soft drinks are included, at all times, on the AmaDara.

This is one perk that makes Ama’s Mekong voyage different from the company’s European cruises, where alcohol is included, but only during specific hours.

The AmaDara, at 324 feet in length, is also smaller than Ama’s Europe ships, holding just 124 passengers, in 62 staterooms (whereas in Europe, most ships, on average, carry between 145 and 155 guests).

It’s a floating, luxury boutique hotel that’s never crowded. And while the AmaDara sounds small, it’s actually the largest passenger ship currently sailing the Mekong.

Upscale, but not uptight

As for the vibe on board, Ama is definitely upscale.

Guests receive attentive service (wine glasses and coffee cups are always full), gifts (like branded hats, scarves, and bottles of bubbly in staterooms), cold lemongrass-infused towels during every embarkation, and twice-daily room resets.  

The team also handles the processing of everyone’s Cambodian visa directly on board. (Passengers, however, must obtain their own visa for Vietnam, in advance). 

But it’s not an uptight experience. Ama is a come-as-you-are package that attracts all walks of life, from Gen X couples to mother-daughter duos to boomers who’ve travelled the world.

Our onboard leaders – a skillful cruise director named Tung, an “Asian James Bond,” (and expert in making sure guests were always prepared, and staying hydrated), and a hotel manager, Markus, an Austrian beer maker and natural MC, whose sharp wit can make even the most reserved travellers cackle – were the glue that kept the operation together.  

With the help of crew and guides, the two gentlemen, with a make-it-happen attitude, orchestrated the guest experience, where there was always room for laughter.

“We have 24-hour alcohol available on board at the front of the ship,” as Markus told passengers in his welcome remarks on the first day. “Hand sanitizer.”

Unlocking the "Charms"

But life on the AmaDara is only half of the story.

There’s also the shore excursions, the “Charms” that Ama has spent years developing in Vietnam and Cambodia, in sacred places – some with dark pasts – along the marshy Mekong, where life literally floats up to the ship at each port of call.

Excursions are daily, led by dynamic local guides, and are included in the price. There are tours for everyone, from slow walkers to active explorers.

Guests choose which adventures they’re interested in ahead of the cruise (a single day can present multiple excursions, in the morning and afternoon), but passengers can switch groups, once on board, if they like.

Starting an excursion is like entering a wresting ring – every group, each a different colour, gets their own exit song, from Rick James’ “Super Freak” to Ace of Base’s “Beautiful Life” to Robin Thicke’s “Blurred Lines,” when it’s time to disembark.

Once on land, a world of exploration awaits.

“This program is for somebody who's open minded, and ready for some adventure,” Gardiner explained.

Not Europe

Indeed: Cruising on the Mekong, unlike voyages in Europe, is a different river dance as the ship docks in rustic locations where ports can be anything from a muddy riverbank where stairs have been dug out to a concrete slab on the side of a village road.

In some cases, the crew will unravel ropes and tie the AmaDara to some trees.

“We want guests to step off the ship and feel like they’re part of the community they’re in,” as Gardiner put it.  

And disembarking isn’t always a land-based process either. 

Sometimes, guests are handed life jackets, ushered into tender boats, and motored into canals to reach a destination, passing floating green water hyacinth, seasoned fisherman and locals living in stilt houses along the way.

Is this a river cruise…or an expedition? On the Mekong, the lines are blurred.

What we can say is that it’s a fine-tuned approach to touring that puts destinations, traditions, industry and people in the spotlight. 

And it’s a culture where everyone belongs – guides, over audio sets, will refer to passengers as “family” while conducting tours.   

Vietnam village people

In Cái Bè, a river-land mixed town in rural Vietnam, we learned the secrets of making rice paper and sweet candy, like rice pop (think peanut brittle, but elevated).

Then, at “Mr. Kiet’s Historic House,” we unpacked a Dinh-style mansion, built in 1838, that was filled with antique furnishings.

Later, in Sa Dec city, we walked through a wet market, frog legs and all, and then entered Cao Dai Temple, a sacred complex, painted yellow, that combines Buddha, Confucius, and Taoist teachings.

It was pure enlightenment, on the river, and from there, things only ramped up faster than you can say ối giời ơi! (“Oh My God!” in Vietnamese, pronounced “oi choy oi!”).

On another day, in Tan Chau, we climbed into trishaws – a three-wheeled vehicle with pedals – and were zipped into a traffic flow of cars and scooters.

While in town, we visited two family workshops that specialized in making rattan mats and silk weaving – the same silks worn by national beauty pageant contestants, and actress Angelina Jolie, we were told.

For many in our group, it was a souvenir-shopping dream, and as the cruise progressed, passengers only got silkier at dinners as they donned their new, locally-sourced outfits.

On another excursion, tender boats glided us to a hidden-away locale, called Evergreen Island, a farming community of rugged roads, vast fields and Brahman cattle. 

Green papaya and chilli peppers lived here, but it was the sight of local parents, and their excited young children, waving in our direction, that brought the land to life.

What felt like a lifetime of discovery, in just three days, was only the beginning of our 400-kilometre journey on the river.

This Mekong march, of heart and mind, with family.

Stay tuned for more of PAX’s exclusive coverage from Vietnam and Cambodia, on the Mekong River, with AmaWaterways.

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