On Location: “Another planet”: An epic voyage through the Galapagos Islands with Hurtigruten Expeditions

It was as if we’d landed on another planet.

Across the jet-black lava fields of Espinosa Point on Fernandina, the youngest island in the Galapagos archipelago, the volcanic rocks that line the rugged shoreline move in mysterious ways.

Galapagos, a cluster of more than 200 volcanic islands, islets and rocks in the Pacific Ocean some 1,000 km from Ecuador, is known for many things:

Its extraordinary wildlife – a melting pot of species with unique habits and few natural predators;

Its unique location on both sides of the equator, where horizons glow in shades of crimson and golden yellow;  

Its sublime ecosystem, which played a role in ironing out naturalist Charles Darwin's Theory of Evolution.

But rocks that move in broad daylight? Maybe the humidity was getting to me.

As our small group emerged from the brush of a tangled-up mangrove, where a motorized Zodiac boat (known as a “panga” in these parts) had dropped us off, a barren field of fractured basalt rock enveloped us completely.

That’s when Fernandina’s shifty topography came into sharper focus.

What at first appeared to be moving rocks were instead heaps of spiky dorsal scales, blunt snouts and grimy, salt-encrusted heads. Fierce-eyed creatures with sharp claws, piled on top of each other in gang-like packs.

It was the stuff some nightmares are made of. But dramatics aside, we’d simply come face to face with Fernandina’s welcoming committee: marine iguanas.

Galapagos is home to several subspecies of these scaly reptiles, but on Fernandina, which has no human inhabitants, the marine variety densely populates the island in jaw-dropping numbers.

As our guide, Daniel, explained, there’s some 8,000 iguanas for every one kilometre of coastline in this region.

“By the end of the day, you’re gonna be iguana’d out,” Daniel said with a laugh as we tip-toed over cracks in the island, an active shield volcano that last erupted in 2009.

Marine iguanas, with charcoal-grey skin (an adaptation that helps absorb sunlight), nearly match Fernandina’s surface. It’s hard to determine what’s rock, and what’s reptile. You have to watch where you step. 

And with concaved faces and gnarly grins, the critters are far from beauty queens.

Even Darwin, who developed his evolution theory after spending time with Galapagos’ wildlife during his historic voyage in 1835, took issue with the saltwater species, once describing them as “hideous-looking,” “disgusting” and “clumsy.”

These goths of the Galapagos are ghoulish, yes, but gentle and curious just the same. And when huddled together (a method for preserving heat) they possess a beauty that runs far deeper than looks.

The fascinating thing about marine iguanas is that they’re the only lizards known to dine in the ocean, Daniel explained.

They diverged between five and eight million years ago, developing an ability to forage on algae and seaweed.

And here they were – this evolution miracle – sunbathing for us wide-eyed tourists as we snapped pictures, like a flock of paparazzi, from two metres away (the golden rule for observing wildlife in Galapagos).

Arf! Arf! Arf! Suddenly, a wild barking perked up our ears. We had company.

As we turned a bend, two blubbery tan-coloured sea lions came charging (flopping) towards us.

“Don’t worry, be still,” Daniel calmly advised us as we locked eyes with the two torpedo-shaped pups as they enthusiastically nodded at us, perhaps communicating their own version of why, hello there.  

After sizing us up, the pups wiggled off, flippers and all, down a shelly beach to join others in a colony.

From there, Fernandina’s cast of characters only multiplied. We saw vibrant blue and red Sally Lightfoot crabs, scurrying out from beneath rocks, dancing in the droplets of crashing waves; a flightless cormorant, a Galapagos hawk (the apex predator). And, eureka! A penguin!

It was an animal extravaganza worthy of the Discovery Channel that could fulfill a lifetime’s worth of travel dreams.  

But in our case, it was just two of several mind-blowing hours that made up our four-day, multi-island cruise through the Galapagos Islands with Hurtigruten Expeditions.

One chapter from a land-and-sea journey – to the world’s edge.

130 years of experience

While Hurtigruten Expeditions is mostly known for its Arctic and Antarctic itineraries, the company still docks in warmer climates, like the Caribbean, whenever its rerouting a ship.

But the Galapagos Islands, which Hurtigruten Expeditions launched in January of last year, is the company’s first warm-weather destination with year-round programming.

Aboard the refurbished MS Santa Cruz II, there are different itineraries, including an Eastern loop, which follows Darwin’s footsteps, a Northern loop, a Western loop (a Thursday to Monday segment, which was the one we were on), as well as combo voyage that covers the Northern and Western Loops as part of a Nine of the Best Isles itinerary.

Hurtigruten Expeditions may be new in Galapagos, but it’s hardly a newcomer in the expedition world.

Parent company Hurtigruten was founded in 1893 – 130 years ago! – as a Norwegian coastal ferry service, and today, the fleet consists of 14 ships (half of which sail along the Norwegian Coast), exploring more than 250 destinations in 30 countries.

In other words, the company knows what it’s doing.

In Galapagos specifically, that expertise is shared with Metropolitan Touring, a local operator (which Hurtigruten owns a minority stake in) that has been exploring the archipelago since the 1960s.

Hurtigruten’s onboard team, here, are from the Metropolitan family (there’s also a rule in Galapagos that requires outside travel companies to hire locally).

The result is an authentic partnership that leaves guests in very capable hands.

The Galapagos "Big 15”

When visiting the Galapagos Islands, there’s an immediate sense of urgency to seek out the “Galapagos Big 15” – a list of animals you’re likely to encounter during your visit.  

It’s like Africa’s “Big Five,” but arguably more exotic (if you can believe that).

Half of the Big 15 were spotted on Fernandina alone, and some islands in Galapagos even have their own subspecies (like the pink land iguana, which are confined to the remote slopes of Wolf Volcano on Isabela Island).

But there’s more to this colourful corner of the world than simply completing a checklist.  

“Galapagos isn’t just a place where you take pictures and check off animals that you have seen,” said Ramiro, our expedition leader. “It changes the way you see the world and how you live life.”

An ecological paradise

Visiting the Galapagos Islands is like entering a world that has sustainability all figured out.

Proof that humans are capable of living in harmony with nature is everywhere, and was visible long before our ship expedition began.

Upon arrival on cactus-covered Baltra Island, a gateway to Galapagos, served by LATAM, the signs that greeted us at Seymour Airport – dubbed “the first ecological airport in the world” – painted a picture of environmental know-how.

“You are walking under solar panels,” read one placard, showing a smiling cartoon tortoise (a Galapagos symbol). “We are 100% renewable energy users,” read another.

This carbon neutral airport, built from recycled materials, only uses natural lighting and ventilation (there’s no A/C). Even its luggage transportation belt does not require electrical power.

As for Galapagos National Park itself, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that covers 97 per cent of the land area, there are protocols travellers must follow during their visit.

Rules, designed to protect wildlife, such as no flash photography and no diverting off foot paths (you could, god forbid, step in an iguanas’ nest).

As a visitor, you’re required to stay with guides at all times (in most off-ship areas), and to keep a two-metre distance from animals (which you’re obviously not allowed to touch).

There’s also a rigorous effort to prevent harmful elements from entering the ecosystem.  

It’s a monitoring process that kicked in long before we arrived on Baltra – at the airport in Quito, Ecuador's capital, two hours away, where Hurtigruten Expeditions hosts pre-cruise city tours.

At this airport, there’s a checkpoint that Galapagos-bound travellers must pass through – a scan that detects things like seeds, fruits and single-use plastics (like loose bags and straws), which Galapagos long phased out.

I felt guilty for packing a plastic-wrapped granola bar (which, in the end, was OK).

This scan dance is done again once in Galapagos to ensure visitors aren’t importing or exporting animals. (It happens).

After our luggage was scanned on Baltra, we exited the airport and boarded a bus that took us 10 minutes inland, along a road of arid salt bushes, to a dock where inflatable Zodiacs (pangas) were waiting to transport us, and our luggage, to our ship.

Arf! Arf! Arf! A colony of wrinkly sea lions, lounging underneath the dock, barked their hellos and goodbyes.

Already, we were spotting animals in the Galapagos Big 15. 

All aboard the MS Santa Cruz II

We zipped out to sea on our motorized pangas, which were operated by a crew, and motored up to the loading area of the MS Santa Cruz II, which sat in open sapphire-coloured water, waiting for us. 

One by one, we stepped aboard, luggage in tow.

The Santa Cruz II is a 90-passenger, carbon-neutral vessel that Hurtigruten Expeditions acquired and refitted in 2021.

It has five bright decks, three of which house 50 stylish cabins, offering a high guest to space ratio.

That’s the thing about sailing in Galapagos – Ecuador only allows small ships with less than 100 passengers, and caps the number of tourists arriving from fleets.

The Scandinavian-inspired interiors on the MS Santa Cruz II include a restaurant, a library, a “Science Corner” (where lectures are held), a panorama bar (with an al fresco terrace) and a top-level sky deck (where a small fitness room is located).

There are refillable water dispensers, two outdoor jacuzzi tubs and self-serve laundry machines (which are free to use!)

It was the best “home” on the ocean we could ask for – spacious, spotless and built for providing the best island coverage and wildlife opportunities.

There were tools on board, too, such as kayaks, snorkeling gear and paddleboards, which guests were welcome to use, at no extra cost.

There was even a glass-bottom boat for those who preferred soft adventure. It made excursions on the water accessible to all.

Swim like a snake

After settling into our cozy cabins, we gathered in the ship’s library to get acquainted with other passengers – a mix of some 40 Americans and Germans, mostly aged 50 and up – and to meet the crew and review safety measures.

We were taught new terms like the “Galapagos handshake,” which is when you grab the arm of a crew member when embarking and disembarking pangas to keep a steady balance.

We learned the difference between a “dry landing” (when pangas drop you off on a rock or cement block) and a “wet landing” (when you disembark on a beach, and require water shoes, because you’re stepping off a panga at a shoreline, directly into water).

The team also shared sound advice: “If a sea lion tries to swim with you, put your arms to your side and wiggle like a snake. Otherwise, they’ll think you’re trying to attack.”

Back in my cabin, I practiced my best snake swim in front of the mirror.

The humans are coming!

From there, things ramped up faster than you could say blue-footed booby (and there were plenty!)

Within less than two hours of unpacking, we were already gliding through the ocean, piling into pangas and heading ashore to Dragon Hill (on Santa Cruz island – Galapagos’ main tourism hub), where we hiked, in small groups, across a desert-like landscape, passing cacti and Palo Santo trees, on maroon-coloured earth.

From the hiking path, we could see our beloved Santa Cruz II, wading in the ocean in the not-so-far distance. Alone. 

And then, the animals. Pink flamingos, feasting in a brackish lagoon; massive land iguanas, with scaly orange, gold and yellow skin, camouflaged in dry brush and sandy holes. Darwin’s finches!

It was almost as if the animals saw us coming and had a meeting. Hurry! Put on your best faces! The humans are coming!

The wild creatures were fearless and unfazed by our presence.

“They think you’re one of them, they think you belong,” as Ramiro, our leader, told us. “That’s why there’s rules. The animals are innocent.”

Eat, explore, sleep. Repeat.

Excursions unfolded on exclusive visitor sites, which we had to ourselves (Galapagos has a system that prevents multiple ships from all showing up at once).

And with naturalists on board, guests could choose from a range of activities.

The flow of each day was the same: get up early, eat breakfast, lifejackets on, find your team (guests are divided into groups, named after animals), disembark the ship and board a panga, explore an island, return for lunch, gear up again for an afternoon of more exploring, return for dinner.

Eat, explore, sleep. Repeat.

And boy, did we sleep. Not just because Hurtigruten Expeditions kept us so busy during the day, but also because the MS Santa Cruz II is one smooth ride.

At times, you couldn’t tell if the ship was docked or moving. 

After dinners (the food on board, by the way, was fab), guests would either retreat to their rooms or grab a nightcap in the lounge or on the terrace. 

There’s no live entertainment on board – wildlife and nature talks, and board games, are the extent of it all. And Wi-Fi, most times, was weak (it’s not a Hurtigruten thing, it’s a Galapagos thing). 

But it’s not like we needed much. With expedition cruising, the days are packed with active exploring. By 10:30-11 p.m., you’re zonked out.  

Into the “mouth” of Isabela

As for each day’s activities, most of them took place on island land. But not all.

At Punta Vicente Roca, a marine-rich bay dominated by pinkish cliffs smothered in white guano (bird poop), we simply cruised along the coast in our pangas, spotting flightless cormorants, fur seals, blue-footed boobies, marine iguanas, sea turtles, penguins and sea lions that would swim up alongside our boat, sniffing and barking, each time we slowed down.

At one point, all of the above animals were spotted, together, in one classic Galapagos vignette.

Only the select few get to experience this special spot. Punta Vicente Roca, accessible only by boat, is as remote as it gets.

The site is located in the “mouth” of seahorse-shaped Isabela, Galapagos’ largest island that straddles the equator on the western edge of the archipelago.  

Punta Vicente Roca is some 200 km away from inhabited areas, and not all ships have the fuel capacity to reach it.

But the MS Santa Cruz II got us there, and later on, we had the option to go snorkeling in the bay’s clear waters, where we swam metres away from glimmering fish, cute penguins and majestic sea turtles. 

Those that didn’t want to get wet observed it all from Hurtigruten’s glass-bottom boat. 

Later in the voyage, we snorkelled again, except in deep water – in between an extinct shield volcano and a dark, “bottomless” ocean, in Champion Islet – where we locked eyes with territorial sea lions (swim like a snake, swim like a snake…) and flutter kicked, anxiously, over reef sharks.

It was both unnerving and exhilarating as we pushed through the ocean current, floating in our lifejackets like bobbing apples.

Thanks to our guides, who floated with us, we had the best direction for navigating this intense waterworld, safely.

Post Office Bay 

Elsewhere, interesting ways of life unfolded on various islands. On Floreana, we encountered human history at a site called Post Office Bay.

The name alludes to a stampless postal system dating back to the 19th century when whalers kept a wooden barrel on the island so mail could be picked up by passing ships, and delivered on their way home, mostly to Europe and the U.S.

The tradition continues today as postcards are placed in a barrel mailbox by tourists, without postage.

Visitors, in return, will rummage through the letters and deliver ones that are close to their home address, after their trip.  

It’s snail mail, Galapagos style. After all these years, the system still works!

Punta Cormorant on Floreana, meanwhile, brought us back to nature and wildlife.

Here, we wet-landed onto a golden-greenish beach rich with olivine – a collection of volcanic crystals that originated in the Earth’s mantle.

The island, which was formed by a volcanic eruption, has a brackish lake where flamingos feast and, further down a trail, there’s a white-sand beach where green sea turtles dig their nests.

There are holes in the sand everywhere – our guides diligently instructed us where to walk, because as far as breeding sites for endangered turtles are concerned, Floreana is egg central.

“It’s raining tortoises!”

During our voyage, it just happened to be International Darwin Day (Feb. 12), which marks the birthday of Charles Darwin, whose famous book, On The Origin of Species, is forever linked with the Galapagos Islands.

So, it was fitting we visited the Charles Darwin Research Station on the island of Santa Cruz, in the town of Puerto Ayora, a tourism hub.

This active laboratory, established in 1964, conducts research to better understand Galapagos’ biodiversity while devising methods for protecting natural habitats.

There’s a program that breeds and raises young giant tortoises that are later released into the wild.

There’s even a taxidermized version of “Lonesome George” – the last known male Pinta Island tortoise, who passed in 2012 – on display for guests to see in a temperature-controlled room.

Santa Cruz, with streets lined with vibrant hibiscus trees, was our ticket to seeing the Galapagos giant tortoise, the most famous animal – a local shell-ebrity, you could say – in the archipelago (“Galapágo,” notably, is an old Spanish word for tortoise).

Tortoises range in size and shape, but they can be categorized into two shell types: domed and saddle-backed (meaning, flatter shells with flared edges and a raised neck opening). We saw both.

On Santa Cruz, the humongous reptiles enjoy wet and green vegetation, and at family-run Manzanillo Ranch, which has plenty of that, tortoises roam by the dozen, plopped in muddy fields and on the side of dirt roads like gigantic boulders.

Sometimes, they block traffic, which presented a challenge to our driver as he swerved his van around clusters of dome-shelled tortoises that had spread out all over the road to Manzanillo, in the Santa Cruz highlands, where the reptiles live harmoniously.

“It’s raining tortoises!” our driver shouted, much to our amusement.  

At the ranch itself, which serves lunch and provides rain boots, in-the-know guides escorted us into a dewy field, where massive, wrinkly-skinned tortoises slowly crawled across grass, or sat still by green ponds, hidden inside their shells.

Keeping a two-metre distance, we got marvellously close to the gentle giants, which made for some powerful pictures.

Never mind selfies. Here, it was about the shell-fies.

Back on the ship, on the outdoor terrace, as I watched a fiery sun dip below the horizon, casting hues of electric orange on the water, I couldn't help but reflect on our remarkable adventure.

The Galapagos Islands are a living testament to the forces of evolution and the beauty of earth’s fragile ecosystems. It's a destination that fosters a deeper appreciation for the balance that sustains life on the planet.

And even when among an unusual mix of wildlife that call the islands home, I still felt a profound sense of connection.

It was bittersweet. Climate change and human’s impact still threaten this ecological paradise. And yet, with passionate scientists, tour guides and locals working to keep the magic alive, there’s hope on the horizon. 

You don’t just leave the Galapagos Islands with an iPhone full of pictures, but with a renewed sense of responsibility to protect and preserve what we have.

You leave with a promise to tell that story.

Some trips just change you. This was one of them.

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