On Location: Luxurious Lyrath Estate in Kilkenny, Ireland – where hawks fly & love lands

The hawks know exactly what’s about to happen.

I step through the gate of the aviary at the Hawkeye School of Falconry, tucked into the sprawling grounds of Lyrath Estate in Kilkenny, Ireland, and find myself surrounded by birds of prey.

They’re everywhere. Hawks. Falcons. Owls. An eagle. Perched quietly behind wire enclosures, they turn their heads and lock their eyes on me as I walk past.

Their hooked beaks and formidable talons are an instant reminder that these are predators — descendants of raptors built to hunt, grab and tear.

Then the squawking begins. It means: “Pick me, pick me!” jokes John Duggan, translating the chorus around me.

The birds, he explains, know what’s coming. A visitor has arrived, which means there’s a good chance somebody in the cage is going hunting.

John and his wife, Caroline, run the school, an outdoor activity centre on the historic grounds of Lyrath, offering “hawk walks” and falconry lessons alongside other activities, like archery and laser clay shooting.

Its feathered residents have personalities to match their impressive plumage, from “Turbo,” a South African white-faced owl, to “Priscilla,” an eagle with a presence that makes her difficult to ignore.

But falconry isn’t simply about watching spectacular birds. It’s a relationship built on conditioning, routine and an intimate understanding of each animal.

“We train the birds like athletes,” John tells me.

And he means it. Here, birds are weighed daily — much like bodybuilders or boxers preparing for competition — with their health, fitness and feeding carefully monitored.

Soon, it’s my turn to meet one outside the aviary.

We walk into an open field, a thick leather falconry glove covers my hand and forearm, protecting me from talons powerful enough to make bare skin a very bad idea.

Then the hawk takes off. For a moment, it belongs entirely to the countryside landscape, slicing across the field and disappearing into trees. I raise my gloved arm, give the signal and wait.

Seconds later, it comes hurtling back.

Wings flare, talons stretch forward. I wince my eyes shut, there’s a whoosh of air, and then, the unmistakable “thump!” of a beefy bird landing on my arm – close enough that I can see every feather before its rewarded with food.

It’s exhilarating, and more than a little surreal. It’s also part of Ireland’s history.

Humans have practised falconry for thousands of years, from the steppes of Asia to medieval Europe.

Often called the “Sport of Kings,” it has survived for some 5,000 years, passed between cultures and generations by falconers devoted to the extraordinary partnership between human and predator.

At Hawkeye, first-timers can step directly into that tradition: handling, feeding and flying trained hawks and owls, watching them leave the glove and, remarkably, choosing to return.

And as introductions to Lyrath Estate go, having a hawk swoop out of the Irish countryside and land on your arm is certainly one way to make an entrance.

This postcard-perfect Kilkenny estate may be a place to check in, slow down and settle into country-house life. But, as I quickly discover, there’s plenty happening beyond the hotel doors.

A five-star country retreat

Birds of prey weren’t the real reason I had flown to Ireland. There was an agenda – a gay one at that.

I was at Lyrath Estate for the wedding of my best friend, Christopher, from Toronto, and his partner, Eamonn, who was born in Ireland.

And if you were going to storyboard an Irish wedding, you’d be hard pressed to find a better backdrop.

Set across 170 acres of mature parkland, lakes and emerald woodland just outside the medieval city of Kilkenny, Lyrath is a five-star country retreat.

At its heart is an ivy-clad 17th-century Manor House, framed by manicured gardens, lush lawns and towering trees.

Behind it, almost discreetly hidden from view, is a contemporary hotel with 141 rooms and a substantial convention centre.

The modern additions have been designed around the historic property rather than allowed to overwhelm it.

A former walled garden became part of the transition between old and new, connected beneath a glass roof that floods the lobby with natural light.

The result is a compound that gently unfolds rather than loudly announcing itself.

Nearly 1,000 years in the making

Lyrath’s story reaches back almost a millennium, to the Norman period in Ireland.

The land was once known as Le Rar or Le Rath and was associated with the French-speaking De Ponte family, who lived in a monastery on the grounds during the 12th century.

A castle is also believed to have once stood here, although no trace of it survives today.

Centuries later, Sir Charles Denny Wheeler-Cuffe commissioned architect John McCurdy — whose work included Dublin’s famous Shelbourne Hotel — to transform the house into the elegant country mansion that forms Lyrath’s historic centrepiece today.

Another left a mark outside. Sir Charles' nephew Sir Ottway Forteque Luke Wheeler-Cuffe married Charlotte Isabel Williams in 1897. She was a botanical explorer who travelled through Burma, now Myanmar, collecting and documenting plants.

When she returned to Lyrath in the 1920s, she helped shape its gardens, introducing species connected to her travels.

That legacy lives on in the estate’s gardens and in the Lady Charlotte Tea Rooms, where the very Irish ritual of afternoon tea unfolds over tiers of sandwiches, scones and sweets.

The estate eventually left the family and, in 2003, was purchased by Kerry-born businessman Xavier McAuliffe, who transformed it into the resort that opened in 2006.

Despite its grand size, Lyrath still feels surprisingly personal.

McAuliffe and his family own the hotel, and he lives at the end of the driveway. Pieces from his personal art collection are peppered throughout the property, including finds from France and classical Greek statues representing the four seasons.

His family coat of arms appears on carpets and stained-glass windows in the Manor House.

There’s even a photograph of him with his two dogs. It’s all part of the charm.

Resort life, Irish style

That warmth extends to the staff.

Over several days, faces became familiar and names were remembered. There was an ease to the service that felt polished without becoming stiff – the kind of hospitality where you quickly stop feeling like a room number.

My Presidential suite belonged firmly to Lyrath’s modern side: contemporary, spacious and comfortable, a contrast to the antique flourishes found in the Manor House.

Only four guest rooms are actually located in the historic house, which means most guests get the atmosphere of an Irish country estate without sacrificing modern hotel comforts.

Every morning, before breakfast, I went for a run through the estate’s woodland.

Those runs became one of my favourite parts of staying here. One minute I was passing that dreamy Manor House; the next, I was in a thick forest, following paths with little more than birdsong for company.

It’s also a playground: the falconry, archery, laser clay shooting and even hurling experiences are offered without guests having to leave the property.

“Lyrath is a destination in itself,” explained Caitriona O’Mahoney, Lyrath Estate’s director of sales and marketing, over lunch.

That distinction matters because Kilkenny is just down the road.

The city is roughly five to seven minutes away by taxi — or about a 30-minute walk — making it possible to spend the day exploring medieval streets, pubs and cultural attractions, then retreat to the countryside.

“Being a five-star resort that close to a city is one of our biggest selling factors,” O’Mahoney said. “You can visit the city and relax at the resort.”

Dinner in Eden

There’s little reason to rush off property for meals, mind you.

The Grill Restaurant is Lyrath’s more refined dining option, with a menu that leans into premium land-and-sea ingredients such as Irish beef, lobster and calamari.

Eden Restaurant takes a different approach. The newer restaurant brings the outdoors in, overlooking Lady Charlotte’s gardens and serving relaxed, bistro-style dishes such as handmade pasta, pulled-pork croquettes and salads.

Elsewhere, the hotel shifts personalities throughout the day. Afternoon tea fills the drawing rooms; a piano bar and live music bring a little more energy after dark.

And let’s not forget the Oasis Spa, where an indoor-outdoor hydrotherapy pool is the star.

There’s a versatility here that has makes Lyrath a draw for incentive groups and corporate retreats.

Companies can take their top performers into the Irish countryside, put them in a five-star hotel and fill their days with activities without constantly loading everyone onto a coach.

Somewhere over the rainbow…

But during this stay, Lyrath belonged to a wedding. Which was very deliberate.

“We're not a conveyor-belt wedding property,” O’Mahoney said.

Rather than packing its calendar with celebrations, Lyrath usually hosts only one or two weddings a week. Smaller ceremonies can unfold in the Manor House, while larger celebrations can use the convention facilities.

The idea is exclusivity. Not only for the couple, but for everyone staying at the hotel.

Still, Lyrath, it seemed, was built for weddings. The historic Manor House doors provided the obligatory group-photo backdrop.

The sweeping lawn and gardens delivered that Irish-country-estate fantasy. Friends and family, from all over the world, could stay, celebrate, eat, drink and recover all in one place.

Some opted to stay in smaller hotels in town, just minutes down the road.

Ireland, as a wedding location, also has its own special effects. The ceremony, that day, had largely escaped the country's famously unpredictable weather when, near the end, a light drizzle began to fall.

Just enough rain to remind everyone where we were.

But then it stopped, and as we made our way toward dinner, someone noticed what had appeared in the clearing sky.

A rainbow! At a gay wedding!

Everyone was piling outside, phones in hand, staring upwards as a brilliant arc stretched above the emerald grounds. “Ooos!” and “Wowss!” from wedding guests filled the dewy air.

The newlyweds and their guests stood beneath it, smiling ear to ear, taking in one of those travel moments that no wedding planner could possibly manufacture.

You couldn’t have scripted it better, and against the Irish backdrop of Lyrath, it felt almost suspiciously perfect.

They say that at the end of every rainbow there’s a pot of gold.

Or, in this case, a really, really lovely hotel.

Things to do in Kilkenny

Lunch (or dinner) at Kytelers Inn

History comes with a side of intrigue at Kytelers Inn, one of Ireland’s oldest inns, serving Kilkenny since 1263. Its original owner, Dame Alice de Kyteler, amassed a fortune through four marriages before being accused of witchcraft and sentenced to burn at the stake.

Thanks to some well-placed connections, she escaped to England instead. Today, the medieval inn is considerably more welcoming, pouring Guinness, Smithwick’s and Kilkenny alongside hearty Irish fare.

A popular pick? The chicken and ham vol-au-vent, served with salad and fries. 

Shenanigans walking tour

History gets a little mischievous on Shenanigans Walks, an award-winning spin through Kilkenny’s Medieval Mile led by local magician, entertainer and master storyteller Nevin Cody.

Blending history, folklore, comedy and a few sleight-of-hand surprises, Cody, who has the gift of the gab, traces the footsteps of Normans, monks, knights, merchants — and Kilkenny’s infamous accused witch, the aforementioned Alice Kyteler.

Along the way, landmarks such as Kilkenny Castle, Rothe House and St. Canice’s Cathedral provide the backdrop for quirky tales and curious questions: Why are Kilkenny locals called “The Cats”? How could a 12-inch needle expose a witch? 

Come for the history, stay for the shenanigans.

Smithwick’s brewery tour

Kilkenny’s brewing story runs deep at the Smithwick’s Experience, an interactive journey through more than 300 years of Ireland’s famous red ale.

Set on the former site of St. Francis Abbey Brewery, the experience traces its roots to Franciscan monks who were brewing here as early as the 14th century, long before John Smithwick established his commercial brewery in the 1700s.

Along the way, visitors can mill malt, smell hops and uncover the secrets behind the signature ruby-red pint.

Naturally, the tour ends on a refreshing note: with a complimentary Smithwick’s to taste for yourself.

A hurling lesson

In Kilkenny, hurling isn’t just a sport — it’s a way of life. At Lanigan’s Bar & Restaurant, home to the Legends Hurling Bar Museum, visitors can get in on the action with The Kilkenny Way, a two-hour introduction to Ireland’s ancient Gaelic game.

After learning about hurling’s roughly 3,000-year history and Kilkenny’s legendary devotion to it, it’s time to grab a wooden hurley and sliotar and hit the pitch.

Local guides teach the basics of the lightning-fast game, from striking the ball to scoring points and goals.

Open to aspiring hurlers, the experience combines sport, history and plenty of laughs — before returning to the pub for a well-earned pint.

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