On Location: Kenya by train with Intrepid Travel, from Nairobi to Amboseli National Park

PAX tried Intrepid Travel’s new “Kenya by Rail: Trains, Safaris & Beaches” tour. This is the first in a three-part series.

Ten days from Nairobi to Diani, on the shores of the Indian Ocean: that’s the itinerary awaiting us. From the capital to Emeli, from Emeli to Voi, and then from Voi to Mombasa, three legs of the journey will be by rail. Between stations, we’ll continue exploring by 4x4.

But first, we have to get to Kenya… and make it through arrivals. From Canada, it takes about 20 hours, including a layover, to set foot in the country.

Once there, however, time seems to slow to a crawl as the queue to clear customs never seems to get any shorter.

Canadian citizens do not need a visa, but they must obtain an electronic travel authorization (eTA) online for US$30. It is normally issued within about 72 hours.

Since Oct. 5, travellers staying for less than 12 months have also been required to purchase health and travel insurance from a national insurer — yes, even if they already have coverage. It can be purchased online or on arrival for US$44.

Because many travellers had completed the formalities before this new rule took effect, there was some confusion on this warm October evening. 

Some ended up queuing twice: before and after obtaining the required proof of insurance.

Fortunately, the rest of the journey would soon make us forget the wait…

Travelling in a small group

Co-founded in the late 1980s by two Australians who wanted to recreate the spirit of backpacking in group travel after taking their friends from London to Nairobi, Intrepid Travel now offers more than 1,000 tours in about 100 countries, catering to different types of travellers.

Led by English-speaking local guides, groups generally consist of about 15 people. The goal remains the same as it was at the outset: to bring about positive change through the joy of travel.

As luck would have it, there are only four of us on this new tour, which is running for just the second time. PAX is travelling with another Canadian and two Americans. 

Our guide, Timothy Ochola, who goes by Tim, has worked for Intrepid Travel for about 10 years. He knows the wildlife well: in addition to Kenya, he regularly leads groups in Tanzania, Uganda and Rwanda.

A comfortable train

Opened in 2017, Kenya Railways’ Standard Gauge Railway (SGR), better known as the Madaraka Express, will connect the stages of our journey. 

Stretching more than 480 kilometres, the country’s newest railway was built with a loan from the Bank of China to replace the old colonial line.

“The repayment deadline has been extended to 2040,” Tim points out.

There are three departures from Nairobi Terminus in Syokimau, including an express service that connects the capital to the port city of Mombasa in about five hours. 

We’ll take the Inter-County train, which stops at every station.

Security is taken seriously in Nairobi. The previous day, we had to pass through a metal detector to enter our hotel while our luggage went through a scanner. 

At the train station, we repeat the process not once, but four times. We also line up all our belongings, including our cellphones, for dogs to sniff. Exhausting, yes, but above all, reassuring.

Despite the delay, our first-class train carriage proves very comfortable. An hour and a half later, we arrive at Emeli station, where Michael, our driver, is waiting with a vehicle equipped with a pop-up roof.

Meeting the Maasai women

It takes just under two hours to reach our first guesthouse. Along the way, we stop at the Patinaai Osim centre, supported by The Intrepid Foundation, a non-profit organization established in 2002.

Opened in 2025, Patinaai Osim offers a range of courses for Maasai women who want to move beyond their traditional roles. In the sewing room, some are busy making bags, several of which Intrepid Travel purchases as gifts for clients.

In another room, women are stringing beads to make jewellery.

“I’m glad to come here,” one of them says. “When I sell a necklace, my children can go to school and have food.”

Kilimanjaro in the background

It seems to follow us everywhere. In Amboseli National Park, Kilimanjaro makes sure we never forget it. As we marvel at a herd of elephants or a giraffe enjoying a meal, we realize it is always there in the background, a witness to all these encounters.

On a clear day, it can also be seen from AA Lodge, where we settle in.

The next few days are devoted to exploring the park, home to large herds of elephants that have been studied here since the 1970s.

Of course, we also delight in spotting zebras, giraffes, ostriches, wildebeest and gazelles. We even catch a distant glimpse of lionesses and spot a lesser kudu — a very rare sight, according to Michael, who describes it as a “shy” animal.

Between explanations about the different species, Tim slips in a few fun facts.

“Giraffes can go 20 to 21 days without drinking,” he says. “They mainly get their hydration from vegetation. When they go to drink, that’s when they’re most often attacked by predators.”

Then, as we spot hippos, he tells us they have the longest-lasting flatulence on the continent.

And that’s not all.

“Hippos have a very bad memory,” he continues. “They constantly get lost. To make sure they find their way back when they get out of the water, they defecate while walking. That way, they only have to sniff their poop to return to their starting point.”

Yes, we went to bed knowing a little more that night.

For travel advisors

Intrepid Travel organizes familiarization trips for travel advisors and offers them discounts of up to 50 per cent on most tours.

Details are available on the Intrepid Agent Hub.

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