A first-hand look at Hurtigruten

Last week, PAX’s Britney Hope joined GLP Worldwide for their Seminar at Sea agent FAM in Norway, which took a group of agents and journalists from Kirkenes to Bergen on a southbound voyage aboard Hurtigruten’s MS Midnatsol.

Sometimes referred to as the “Norwegian Coastal Express,” Hurtigruten is not a cruise line, but rather, a company of working vessels that happen to offer week-long itineraries while they deliver important goods, mail and even people to difficult-to-reach points along the coast. As a result, the travel company has a reputation among Canadian agents for offering very little in the way of on-board entertainment and other indulgent amenities typically expected within the North American cruising market. 

Part of the reason for this misconception is, according to Alan Law, GLP’s director of sales and marketing, because Hurtigruten’s itineraries are so complex and authentic, it can be difficult to wrap one’s head around the product without experiencing it in person.

Here's a list of first-hand insights to help Hurtigruten’s agent specialists get a better sense of what their clients can expect. 

THE SHIP

True to some pre-trip research gathered from various sites online, the MS Midnatsol, built in 2003, was slightly dated in its design, favouring functionality over flare in its practical cabin appointments and ship-wide furnishings. 

However, this served to enhance the authenticity of the on-board experience, with the wood-panelling and warm, no-frills upholstery creating an atmosphere suited to that of a Norwegian expedition. After all, you don’t visit a five-star Southwest ranch in Arizona and look for Parisian elegance. 

Furthermore, the MS Midnatsol has been incredibly well kept for its age; there are no signs of wear and tear, everything is kept impeccably clean, and everything in the design has been masterfully thought-out - from the heated floors in the cabin bathrooms to the convenient proximity of the cabin floors to the dining and communal areas and the quintessentially Scandinavian use of space.  

Not to be picky, but… For travellers who like to drift off to Jimmy Kimmel, the cabin televisions could be better placed. Presently, they face the cabin sofas, and are not visible from the bed.

FOOD & BEVERAGE

Hurtigruten specialists will be familiar with its buffet breakfast and lunch arrangements, as well as its assigned-seating three-course set menus at dinnertime. 

What they may not be aware of is that the company has put great efforts toward improving the quality and variety of its on-board dining experience over the past few years, and it shows. 

The selection at breakfast is a considerate blend of North American and European-style choices, from fried eggs and bacon to smoked and pickled fish. 

While the menu at dinner is set in advance, consisting of soup or salad, a meat and vegetable dish and dessert, our group was surprised and delighted with the creativity and quality of the chef’s medium-rare reindeer steak and fresh-caught seared cod.

A little-known fact is that those with allergies or restrictions can make special requests prior to dinnertime, as Hurtigruten is able to work with all kinds of dietary needs.

For passengers craving something different, the ship’s Coastal Kitchen offers a la carte menu selections for a nominal price. Our group enjoyed crayfish soup and beef tenderloin in the privacy of the Coastal Kitchen dining room, with the chef surfacing to explain each artfully-designed course. 

Not to be picky, but… While water (once a point of contention for Canadian travellers due to the need to purchase it by the bottle at dinnertime) is now included as part of a full board package, alcoholic beverages are still largely only available at an additional (and sometimes jaw-dropping) cost, or as part of a fixed package. Offering these as part of an upgraded version of full board, or including a glass of wine/beer with dinner would be a nice way to appeal to North American passengers who are accustomed to all-inclusive stays. 

EXCURSIONS

The nature of Hurtigruten’s excursions vary from season to season, with soft adventure options like whale watching and horseback riding typically available only during the warmer months. 

For travellers with mobility issues, the guided coach tours take place at a nice pace, and offer an in-depth look at some of Norway’s most picturesque and unique communities with the added insight of local guides. Walking tours of certain towns are also available for those wanting to get a closer look, but are not offered as frequently as bus tours.

Not to be picky, but… While the Sea Eagle Safari certainly delivered on its promise, offering guests many opportunities to see the magnificent animals in their natural habitat, the techniques of the company offering the excursion - which include plying seagulls with bread to lure the sea eagles closer, and then feeding the sea eagles fish from the boat - could be called into question by travellers inclined to favour sustainable tourism practices. 

SERVICE

The typical Hurtigruten staff member has been with the company between five and 10 years, which says something for its working conditions. 

Staff are well-paid, meaning tipping is appreciated but certainly not necessary, and in spite of the ship’s schedule and procedures being relatively uniform due to it being a working vessel, they are also very flexible when it comes to special requests - particularly when it comes to asking for extra portions of food, or a later seating, at dinnertime. 

Smiles are always at the ready, and while the service could never be classified as doting, it’s attentive and efficient, largely due to the everyone-does-everything teamwork attitude.

Not to be picky, but… It could be said that onboard operations would benefit from better communications from the top-down. Given that Hurtigruten works double duty as a lifeline to local communities in addition to being an expedition company, there are a lot of logistics involved in planning special experiences that are outside the norm, and deviating from the schedule can prove to be a challenge.

THE TAKEAWAY

While Hurtigruten could certainly make some small changes to better appeal to North American expectations, to call this trip anything other than a once-in-a-lifetime bucket list experience would be greatly underselling it.

The scenery, service, culture and history found on a Hurtigruten voyage can be confidently portrayed to clients as unlike anything they’ve ever experienced before - and is miles away from anything that classifies as mainstream.